Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: McGrath’s

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Outside McGrath'sTo very, very broadly paraphrase Paul Collins, the spots you don’t visit in your first few weeks of living in a new area become places you never go; they seem oddly out of your orbit. That has been the case for us with McGrath’s, a pub that is mere steps from home, but one we had previously only had one brief visit into, in between Covid lockdowns. That timing, no doubt, played a role, as did the fact that other pubs nearby either had a reliable children’s menu or had re-opened under new management, so there was a built-in excuse to visit those. And as there was no independent beer option on that single visit, there was no compelling reason to go back, especially when Juno and The Cat & Cage have some more compelling (if not inexpensive) choices for our fellow Drumcondra-area neighbours.

Scraggy Bay at McGrath'sBut having been reliably informed by someone who knows that there should be some local pints at McGrath’s – and at a reasonable-for-Dublin price – we paid another visit. But before we get to the drinks, it’s a spot that requires a bit more descriptive detail. Unlike many of its nearby counterparts, the interior (and, indeed, exterior, with its neon ‘LOUNGE’ sign) are not the more common-or-garden late 19th century pub style, nor its more modernised descendant, though the structure itself was built in the 19th century as housing. It became a pub at some point before 1938, when it took its current name, and the mostly-light wood and light fixtures look like it was last meaningfully refreshed in the 1960s. This adds a certain time-capsule charm, and it is certainly unpretentious.

The bar at McGrath'sPerhaps the real draw, though, is the Kinnegar tap – a reliable Scraggy Bay, and for a mere €7.20; this is an entire euro cheaper than you’ll find it at some nearby pubs, so certainly noteworthy. There’s also Galway Hooker, but we’ve never been fans of any of their beers (even before their rather confusing recent history of ownership and recipe changes), so no need to explore that option. And while we haven’t been in the pub much before this occasion, the attached off-license is quite a useful one, with a nice selection of beers from local stalwarts like Hope and Rascals. Again, it’s something of a time-warp with the need to be buzzed in the door, but for a small shop, it has a pleasantly surprising range of choices.

We may avail ourselves of the ‘affordable’ Scraggy more often in future, now that we are aware of it…

Where: Drumcondra Road Lower, Drumcondra, Dublin, D09 X5P6
Access from the city centre: 1, 13, 16, 44, 122, F1, F2, F3; 35ish minute walk
Food: Scampi fries, crisps
Sport: Golf, football, GAA, etc.
TVs: In various spots around the pub and in the lounge
Music: Just the sport on our visit
Family-friendliness: A fair few kids in on a weekend afternoon
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – there are other pubs within a shortish walk, with Juno, Quinn’s, Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand, Fagan’s and Gill’s Corner House nearby, though it’s also worth it to head to The Bald Eagle, The Brian Boru or The Cat & Cage
Local sites of note: Croke Park, Mater Hospital, Royal Canal
Haunted: Does light phrogging count?
Other notes: Although food does come up if you search, there is no evidence of a current non-salty snack food offering
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Mulligan’s of Poolbeg Street

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The back room at Mulligan'sThis week’s Dublin pub is another frequently-requested one that we’ve put off visiting for far too long, and we were quite wrong to delay. Although previously labouring under the misapprehension that Mulligan’s of Poolbeg Street was a pub only for Guinness bores (albeit one with a few good stories), it is, in fact, delightful in nearly every way that appeals to us.

Although it does (actually) have an 18th century license, the modern pub looks barely touched since its 1880s rebuild. The dark reds and yellows, the wood panelling and the somewhat spare furnishing make for an unfussy Old Man Pub experience. It is, happily, lacking the busy array of old signage and remaindered hardware that can be overdone in some places, especially in overseas Oirish Pubs. There are two distinct sides of the pub, one entirely free of televisions if you prefer that experience. The beautiful back room is perfectly atmospheric, and there’s even a bonus outdoor beer garden.

A handy sign at Mulligan's
A handy sign at Mulligan’s

And yes, the Guinness may be a draw, but there is a very strong local independent lineup as well: several Wicklow Wolf and O’Hara’s options are on offer alongside The White Hag’s Little Fawn. But even among the macro beers, it’s a wider-than-usual array: the full Guinness/Beamish/Murphy’s blind tasting is possible, and there’s Harp and Kilkenny as well, plus some handy non-alcoholic options. In short, there’s something for every beer drinker (as well as some ciders for good measure).

But it’s the stories that bring people in (and back) – we’re much more interested in Judy Garland’s visits than JFK’s – though there are so many tales of this particular pub that it has its own dedicated book. We’d also highly recommend a listen to this Publin episode about how an American visitor’s ashes came to be resting in the clock; it certainly drives home some of the pub’s atmosphere.

The clock at Mulligan'sAs regular readers will know, we collect ghostlore of all stripes, and frequently complain that we simply don’t get enough of it around Dublin pubs, so finding a few good tales (especially as we closer to Spooky Season) is always cause for joy. The fact that the sightings (soundings?) in question are a bit shadowy and vague only adds to their appeal.

Finally, the other reason we wish we’d stopped in before is that Mulligan’s also feels much more urban and down-to-earth than even some of its near neighbours; the rather florid JR Mahon’s around the corner can feel entirely suburban in comparison. As city folk, the vibe in Mulligan’s is much more (for lack of a better word) straightforward; the fact that they also have a cracking beer lineup is a real bonus that will keep us coming back to do a bit of ghost-bothering.

Where: 8 Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2
Access from the city centre: Right there
Food: Peanuts, scampi fries, crisps
Sport: The usual football, etc
TVs: Screens on one side of the bar
Music: Low-key tunes
Family-friendliness: Grown-up vibes
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Cassidy’s, Tapped, Harty’s Bar, Bowes, JR Mahon’s, Bill Aherne’s, The Oval, The Palace Bar, The Flowing Tide, Piper’s Corner and many more
Local sites of note: NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Trinity College, Abbey Theatre, Irish Whiskey Museum, O’Connell Street
Haunted: FINALLY, some spooky goings-on are reported
Other notes: Is it the platonic ideal of a Dublin pub? Perhaps…
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for History

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A glass of Rye River Upstream Pale Ale in the beer gardenIt’s September, and that means the Dublin Festival of History is nearly upon us; as ever, many wonderful events have sold out almost instantaneously, but there are more to explore. You can also create your own historic pub crawl – and maybe learn a little bit along the way.

For our purposes here, we aren’t looking for Dublin’s ‘oldest’ pub (we bang on enough about the bogus entries in the ‘oldest pub’ category across the country *cough* Sean’s Bar *cough*) or most literary pub, but rather, those with a reasonably legitimate historical claim to fame. Not of the ‘was once mentioned in Ulysses‘ or ‘Brendan Behan drank here’ sort, as we’d be here all week, but those with documented (or at least well-attested) historical connections. Given that the Wide Streets Commission knocked down much of medieval Dublin, we have no truly ‘old’ pubs (or even ‘old’ pubs that were once built as something else) to explore, so we’ll start off with pubs that have associations with the 1798 rebellion.

A pint at The Cat & CageThe Brazen Head and The Lord Edward both have arrays of 1898 memorabilia (although The Lord Edward is ‘only’ a late 19th century building, and feels much more like a 1960s pub than anything else), commemorating the centenary of the 1798 rebellion, though The Brazen Head goes a few steps further and claims – with at least some good evidence – that events were, to some extent, planned or discussed here – ditto Robert Emmet’s 1803 uprising. Indeed, we would love to see them lean more into this more interesting (and fact-based) history vs their entirely imaginary 1198 ‘founding.’ With so much real history – as well as a bit of related folklore – why not focus on that? (Yes, we know the ‘why’ is that many tourists are very willing to believe anything they’ve been told and it makes them feel good to see the ‘oldest fill-in-the-blank’ – it’s just a shame they are missing out on a much more interesting, if more complex, story). The Cat & Cage also claims a bit of 1798 action, as it was a postal stop during its time as a coaching inn; rebels seized a postal cart outside as a sign that the rebellion was on. We would still love to see a full historical survey of The Cat & Cage, as we suspect there may well be more going on there, archaeologically and archivally-speaking…and, frankly, we find it a much nicer pub than its city centre counterparts.

Exterior of The Long HallMoving on to pubs associated with the Fenian movement in the 1860s and 1880s, there are a few more takers – not particularly surprising, as so many Dublin pubs are late 19th century buildings at the earliest. The Bleeding Horse and The Long Hall (Cromien’s at the time) both trade on their associations to the movement without being entirely defined by them. Brogan’s (trading as Wrenn’s back then) is where the 1882 Phoenix Park assassinations were planned by the Invincibles; the event was organised just across the street from Dublin Castle, mere steps from the colonial establishment – whilst talk of a tunnel is likely no more than just that, the basement does flood from the old castle moat, as OG Underdog (RIP) regulars know all too well. The Hut also served as something of a Fenian meeting spot too, later in the 19th century, so it is said, though there’s little to tell the tale now amid the well-kept Victorian pub splendour.

Busts of Irish independence leaders inside The OvalA number of still-extant local pubs played roles in the Easter Rising and the War of Independence; The Portobello Bar (known as Davy’s) became part of the action, while The Oval was destroyed completely in 1916, and required years to rebuild. Cleary’s, meanwhile, was another meetup spot for Michael Collins and Harry Boland, among others, though Collins was also partial to The Palace Bar, and The Confession Box (previously The Maid of Erin) was another key locale for Volunteers. We highly recommend a viewing of this video featuring all-around legend Donal Fallon for more, and we always recommend his absolutely wonderful The Dublin Pub: A Social and Cultural History for further reading. We assume you’re all already listening to Three Castles Burning.

The Dublin Pub at Underdog (RIP) - yes, we're cheating with this picture.Finally, we’ll finish with something of an oddity, historically-speaking. As regulars know, most stories of secret tunnels or ‘ship’s timbers’ used to build pubs are Lies, and you should all pick up Historic Building Mythbusting by James Wright for more (or listen to us chat historic pub nonsense with James on the Beer Ladies Podcast). However, The Oak’s wooden panelling is said to have come from the RMS Mauretania, when its fittings were sold off in 1934. Is it entirely true?

Well, it makes a good story…and we’re willing to give this one a bit of credence. It looks the part, and the management doesn’t go out of its way to tell you about it.

And as mentioned at the start, there are plenty of local pubs with literary and journalistic associations, those with sporting links, musical legends and so on…just be wary of any advertising ‘early’ foundation dates or other overly-specific superlatives. A thoughtfully critical eye can be a fine companion to a nice pint, and a lovely way to begin a historic adventure.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: PYE

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Inside PYEWe tend to avoid bigger crowds when out and about (and, frankly, we like to be home early – sleep is important!), but we recently made an exception to stop into PYE in Dundrum at what looked to be close to peak weekend action. Despite the crowds, the very professional and friendly staff managed to find our group a handy corner, and kept us fed and watered in the process.

But let’s back up – what kind of a place is PYE, and who is the target demographic?

Dog rules for PYEIt certainly leans more ‘gastro’ than ‘pub,’ but the overarching feeling about the place is ‘dog friendly‘ – there may be a more ‘elevated’ food selection than at many pubs around Dublin, but it’s the canine visitors (and their humans, often of a youngish variety) who are especially well catered-to. There is a vending machine with doggy treats and accessories, advantageously-placed water bowls and beds, plus plenty of little nooks and crannies for the more retiring pup. Given that PYE is from the same team behind The Barber’s Bar in Stoneybatter – a spot we love – this is no surprise. The scale, however is quite different.

PYE took over the former Eagle House pub in 2022, and converted it from a traditional pub into a series of drinking, dining and event spaces, both indoor and outdoor. It a sensible use of the space – a fair few of these more suburban pubs once served as drinking establishments, groceries, post offices and even morgues (often concurrently), but it’s difficult to make use of some of those massive buildings in anything close to their original 19th century layouts in a way that makes economic sense today. The renovation also included accessible toilets, something that is still not a given in every pub here, especially not those originally built in the 19th century.

Beer garden at PYEAnd while it may feel a bit less spontaneous than your typical Old Man Pub where you simply walk in and head to the bar to order (not in a queue, thank you – we don’t do that here), it’s a fair evolution of the pub concept – there was still plenty of socialising over drinks on our visit, plus some adorable dogs as a bonus. It stands in contrast to our experience at Token, which has very much of an Enforced Corporate Fun vibe, and while there are clearly similar events hosted at PYE, the ‘feel’ of the place was still, overall, ‘pubby’ versus ‘event venue.’

Although the aggressively-modern pink-and-green colour scheme may not be to every taste, the name hearkens back to a previous Dundrum business – the PYE electronics business that used to be near this part of town, so there is a nod to local history. The extensive food menu offers something for everyone, even those with allergies, and the drink selection is more than respectable: Kinnegar, Whiplash, Hopfully and Trouble are all well-represented, and there are other rotating indie choices as well, plus Guinness, Beamish and the like. There’s also some Japanese whiskey if that’s your preference.

Doggy wall at PYE - yes, very similar to its companion at The Barber's BarAnd while we are usually visiting Brickyard for their excellent beer selection and tasty food when down this way (though we fervently wish they also had a Northside outpost), PYE was well worth a side quest – we’d be in much more often if we were closer.

And while we can much more easily visit The Barber’s Bar when we need our Good Doggo fix, it’s nice to know we have options when in the wilds of South Dublin; PYE is certainly one to add to the Best Pubs for Dogs list.

Where: Main Street, Dundrum, D14 V9R3
Access from the city centre: Bus 14; Luas Green Line. You’re not walking unless you’re up for something close to 2 hours
Food: Everything from brunch to pizza, spice bags and snacks, with a welcome charcuterie board
Sport: All the big events, especially rugby; you are in South Dublin, after all…
TVs: Lots of screens, all around
Music: Party people in the house
Family-friendliness: Children welcome until 7 pm – there is a kids’ menu and many easy choices from the adult menus
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – Dundrum House is across the road, Brickyard is a shortish walk away, but it’s much more suburban out this way
Local sites of note: Dundrum Town Centre, Airfield Estate
Haunted: Might seem cursed to those allergic to colour and lights
Other notes: Many gluten-free options and step-free access
Socials: Instagram, Facebook, TikTok(!)

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Sin É

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The stage at Sin ÉPart music venue, part dive bar, Sin É may also have something of a claim as one of Dublin’s oldest pub buildings. While originally built as a house in the 18th century, like many of its Ormond Quay neighbours it was converted into commercial use in the late 19th century. It’s been this particular bar for a decade, and while it’s better known as a late-night venue, it does open in the afternoon for a casual pint.

Taps at Sin ÉAnd while the formal stage at the back of the main floor makes it feel more venue than pub, it’s got a rather respectable beer lineup, including its own beer from Trouble, as well as the more-common Ambush. There is also a Kilkenny tap – it’s no longer so lesser-spotted around Dublin – and the other usual suspects.

Downstairs fireplace at Sin ÉBut downstairs, where there are more seating and stage options, is where there’s a bit of a slightly eerie historic atmosphere; the stone walls, low lighting, cool temperature and quiet (during the afternoon – not, of course, so much at night during a gig) do suggest, even if it’s ever-so-slightly, The Unseen. We couldn’t find any good ghost stories, but they do put on some good Halloween shows, so it’s worth keeping an eye out for that, even if the folklore isn’t forthcoming.

As with some of our other favourite dive bars-cum-venues around town, notably The Thomas House and Anseo, there’s a bit of a ‘feeling’ about the place, though we recognise that’s more likely down to the muted lights (not quite Frank Ryan’s-level dark, we should add) and darker colours, rather than anything properly spooky.

Outside Sin ÉWhile you’re unlikely to find us out and about at one of their 2 am events, in a city with an ever-shrinking number of creative and arts spaces for both emerging and established artists, it’s handy to have one with a real personality; being in a 300-ish year old building is a bonus.

It would be nice if the road outside and the street furniture were a bit less cursed…

Where: 14-15 Upper Ormond Quay, Dublin, IE Dublin 7
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 77A, 80, 150, 151, Luas Green Line or a (likely faster) 10 minute walk
Food: Used to be pizza, but not clear if it’s still a thing…
Sport: No
TVs: Not here
Music: All kinds of music, comedy and other gigs – check the socials
Family-friendliness: Leave the kids at home for this one
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Capel Street is just around the corner, with Pantibar, Slattery’s, The Black Sheep and many more, or head the other direction to Fidelity and Frank Ryan’s; Temple Bar and The Brazen Head are just across the river if you’re doing the tourist thing
Local sites of note: National Leprechaun Museum, Smock Alley Theatre, Four Courts, St Mary’s Abbey Chapter House
Haunted: Definitely has an atmosphere
Other notes: Basement toilets and fireplaces
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Bill Aherne’s

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Exterior of Bill Aherne'sIn a small city like Dublin, it’s relatively easy to rally local beer nerds with a little bit of novelty – news travels quickly amongst our cohort – and whether it’s a new pub or, in this case, a bit of a throwback experience, it will be thoroughly investigated within days.

Work and travel have kept us away until now, but once the Bat Beer Signal went up from Donal, via his excellent Public House History, a visit to Bill Aherne’s was a must.

What and why, you may ask?

Well, it’s simple – Bill Aherne’s is the newish name for what was most recently Fitzgerald’s Bar, but this location has been a pub known by a variety of monikers since it was built in the late 19th century. Now under the ownership of Willie Aherne – grandson of Bill, and yes, the same Ahernes who own The Palace Bar, there’s a similar commitment to whiskey and keeping the historic interior in tip-top shape. But what made the beer nerds descend was not a name-change…rather, it’s the opportunity to try ‘warm Guinness‘ – well, sort of. Let’s explain.

One of the major reasons there’s vanishingly little cask ale in Ireland is that Guinness moved to tap-dispensed kegs in the 1950s and 60s; as the major supplier to essentially every pub in the country, they also upgraded (or, if you prefer, changed) the infrastructure in those pubs to cold rooms and keg dispense – and kept the competition out, while they were at it. And yes, this is wildly oversimplifying, but it was essentially the end for cask in most places here; you need to know where to go (and hope it’s on) if you’re a fan.

The tap boxAnd while there is no beer engine option here, there is a 1960s tap box on the bar, set up to dispense Guinness at something closer to room temperature. Naturally, we’ve all had to give it a go. So much of Guinness culture is the theatre around its presentation and serving – the two-part pour (don’t get us started on that, nor on Splitting the G, except as a parody concept), letting it settle, the branded glassware all play a part. And there’s a special glass involved here if you order a pint from the tap box – the extra gold on the lettering is a nice touch.

The back of Bill Aherne'sAnd does it taste markedly different from ‘cold’ Guinness? Well…perhaps a bit, though it’s also a similar experience if you’re slowly sipping, and the beer has warmed up while you’ve taken your time over it. But as a bit of a change from the standard Guinness pint (also, it should be noted, very much available here, along with Changing Times, though we’ve opined about that elsewhere – the Rye River tap looked to be getting some use as well on our visit), it’s good fun, and the pub has been nicely spruced up; though not hugely changed from its previous incarnation, it does seem a bit brighter and lighter. The back of the pub looks to be larger than it was before, with a small stage (there is regular live music). All told, it’s a very comfortable pub now, with some lovely snugs.

And there are (whiskey) casks as well…it would be delightful if the experiment with the ‘historic’ equipment also led to a cask option for at least one beer here.

We live in hope…

Where: 22 Aston Quay, Dublin 2, D02 FH28
Access from the city centre: In it – the Liffey is opposite the pub, Temple Bar is down the road, Trinity around the corner…
Food: Crisps
Sport: Nada
TVs: No
Music: Live trad and other gigs in evenings – check the socials
Family-friendliness: Spotted a few kids in snugs in the afternoon
Pub-crawl-ability: High – sister pub The Palace Bar, Cassidy’s, JR Mahon’s, O’Neill’s, Bowes, Tapped, Harty’s Bar, The Oval, Mulligans, The Flowing Tide, The Morris Bar & Piper’s Corner are all nearby
Local sites of note: National Wax Museum, Trinity College, Abbey Theatre, Irish Whiskey Museum, O’Connell Street
Haunted: No good ghost stories that we know of
Other notes: Basement toilets
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for Dogs

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Dorcas at The Bernard ShawThis month’s Dublin pub round-up is one for which we’ve had more requests than just about any other topic – certainly, it out-ranks queries about basics like food (done it), ‘the best Guinness in Dublin’ (there are plenty of other places to get that sort of content, whether or not you believe that’s A Thing), or general ‘how do I pub?‘ questions. But what most people seem to want to know isn’t about the beer or the atmosphere; rather, it’s ‘where can I bring my dog?’

So, without further ado, we’ve collected Dublin’s most dog-friendly pubs – you can use it as a guide if you want to take your own Good Boy or Girl out for a pint, as many of these spots also offer treats and water bowls, or if you are dog-averse, this tells you where you may want to tread cautiously – we do mention a spot where you’ll especially want to avoid tripping on tails below.

Nelly and Dorcas at The Bernard ShawMost of the more dog-friendly spots are outside the immediate city centre, which is hardly surprising, as most dog owners live at least a little bit further out. But Dublin is a city which has seen a horse on the Luas, so dogs at certain in-town pubs is not a shocker. Mary’s Bar and Hardware Shop on Wicklow Street fits the bill in that regard, but you will certainly have better luck with your furry friend even just slightly outside this area. Street 66 and Lucky’s both welcome dogs, and McNeil’s, The Morris Bar, MeMa’s and The Big Romance are all quite central, and great spots to hit on walkies.

Like The Big Romance, its sister bar Fidelity is also dog-friendly, and just across the street is Frank Ryan’s, where the resident dog is one of the trip hazards in the always-dark interior – mind where you step! Head a bit further back toward The King’s Inn and it’s something of a hidden gem for dogs, both outside and in. And speaking of inter-related pubs, all of the Animal Collective bars – Kodiak, Bonobo, Caribou and Daphni, which even has a dog logo – all welcome furry friends. BrewDog is pet-friendly, too…perhaps the clue is in the name.

Doggie portraits at The Barber's BarSome other spots the dog-walker may want to keep an eye out for include The Circular, The Old Royal Oak, Taphouse and The Old Spot, while Brickyard asks its dog customers to stay relaxed on their comfortable outdoor deck.  Also in Dundrum, dogs are not only welcomed but spoiled at PYE. There’s a nice walk possible from the newly-reopened Quinn’s to The Cat & Cage, then across Griffith Park to The Gravediggers (there are some neighbourhood cats along the way, so be aware if that’s potentially of too much interest to one’s dog) and on to The Botanic, with Phibsborough serving as a dog magnet, courtesy of some nice parks, as well as The Back Page and Doyle’s Corner.

Nelly at BrickyardBut there is no better neighbourhood for pints with pups than Stoneybatter – indeed, you can have a very fully-featured pub crawl, with a warm welcome for Fido all over the area: Hynes’ Bar, Kavanagh’s, Nancy Hands, The Belfry, L. Mulligan. Grocer and The Glimmer Man are all top spots, but even here, nowhere celebrates all things canine than The Barber’s Bar. There’s a wall with photos of doggie regulars, snacks and water, beds and even little hidden boltholes for the more retiring dog.

In closing, thanks to Des for the pics of our models, Nelly and Dorcas, and have a look over at HUG to find out how you can help a local greyhound find a new home. And if you’re not a fan of dogs, well…maybe Stoneybatter is a place to leave off your list. But we’ve always found local dogs in these pubs to be well-behaved…it’s not always the case with tourists in Temple Bar!

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Quinn’s

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Exterior of Quinns. Yes, locals have asked for the street furniture in the area to be improved, and yet, here we are In one of the longest-awaited (or, for the more cynical among you, most-doubted-to-ever-happen) Dublin pub re-openings, Quinn’s Pub has finally thrown wide the doors, some six years after its closure, and after several intervening years of decay, delays and general development hell.

It’s something of an infamous pub, known just as much in the past for its brushes with poor drainage, health and safety issues and even a murder as for its reputation as a gameday location for those descending upon Croke Park from the countryside for the GAA. It was also a popular (if, apparently, ‘smelly’) student bar in the 1990s and 2000s, from back when DCU students could afford to live in nearby rental properties; not really an option now that those houses are nearly all airbnbs, but that’s another story.

We even get a bit of folklore in the demise of the previous incarnation of Quinn’s – the story goes that then-owner, Seán Quinn – devastatingly referred to on the pub’s current website as a ‘former billionaire’ – caused his own misfortune when he moved the Aughrim Wedge Tomb, a megalithic tomb of c. 2000 BCE, in order to make way for some quarrying (and to create an ersatz tourist attraction at a hotel he formerly owned, where it remains). This, as one might expect, upset the Good People, and it was all downhill from there. (Your fair scribe has not-dissimilar thoughts about this, as a former archaeologist). In any event, Quinn himself has not been associated with the pub for some years, but it’s taken the new ownership group a long time and a somewhat-controversial investment scheme to get back up and running.

The rebuilt bar at Quinn'sOriginally slated to open ‘for Paddy’s Day’ about 2 years ago, it’s finally been close enough to done to start getting customers in – just in time for the All-Ireland Final which saw Mayo break a 75-year curse to win, so we should probably never assume there may not be more occult forces at work, somewhere. This is important context for the outsider, as it’s difficult to convey just what a sellout day at Croke Park is like for the neighbourhood, whether that be a concert or a GAA final: you suddenly have an extra 82,000 people to contend with, mostly in good humour, but they will be spilling out of every local pub, café and shop, not just across pavements, but into the roads – good luck getting your bus through. One can imagine that the custom on a single big day must be a massive part of the annual revenue for our local businesses, so getting something open before the last big GAA event was, well, kind of a big deal.

Cafe side of Quinn'sSo what we do see now is by no means the finished product, but as a local resident, it was Important to go check out what was on offer, once it was possible to do so. Quinn’s is a very large building by local standards, and the new owners have divided up what was the ground-floor bar into a café – opening during the day for coffees, etc, and as a wine bar in the evenings – with the other side maintaining a more traditionally ‘pubby’ feel. This is probably a very sensible approach, especially for out-of-season operations, but it does make that ‘pub’ side seem a bit small (if comfortably furnished). The theme is, of course, GAA, and there will also be hotel rooms upstairs, all decorated in different county colours, so that continues throughout.

A pint of Carlsberg at Quinn'sPerhaps most surprisingly – and this is a pleasant surprise – there’s even a local independent beer on offer. This is not a given at most of the more ‘sporty’ pubs in Dublin, so it was great to see a Whiplash tap, even if it wasn’t up and running yet on our visit. The Carlsberg, however, tasted just as fresh as it does in Copenhagen, so clearly, considerable work has gone into completely reworking the tap lines (and plumbing in general – no smells!). There is Beamish as well as Guinness, so if Cork are playing, their fans will be well-catered to.

It looks as if it will be a while longer before more food offerings and upstairs bars come online, but a planned outdoor food market has already been advertising for vendors, so it will be interesting to watch the progress continue to unfold. And while the (men’s) GAA is done for the season, there’s still a series of late-summer concerts to get through (not that we’re complaining – Croke Park does a good job of keeping locals informed about expected attendance numbers and timing, and we’ve had free tickets on a number of occasions, including for last year’s Oasis gig, so it’s by no means a bad system) – will fans of The Weeknd [sic] enjoy Quinn’s?

Time will tell…

Where: 42 Drumcondra Rd Lower, Botanic, Dublin 9
Access from the city centre: 1, 13, 16, 44, 122, F1, F2, F3; 35ish minute walk
Food: TBD, but some light snacks on the cafe side now
Sport: GAA, presumably more will be featured, albeit in a more casual way
TVs: Still getting set up, but a few already in situ
Music: A mix on our visit, but one imagines All Sport on big match days
Family-friendliness: Daytime, perhaps…but not so much at night
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium; there are other pubs within a 10-15 minute walk, with Juno, McGrath’s, Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand, Fagan’s and Gill’s Corner House nearby, though it’s also worth it to head to The Bald Eagle, The Brian Boru or The Cat & Cage 
Haunted: It’s had a murder, dead rats…surely, there is a story or two to be shared
Local sites of note: Croke Park, Royal Canal, Mater Hospital
Other notes: The drainage has been remedied
Socials: Instagram, TikTok

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Doom Slice @ Pawn Shop

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Inside Pawn ShopIs it a pub, or is it a bar?

There are a fair few pubs in Dublin that don’t comfortably fit the ‘Irish pub’ stereotype – the dark wood, the photos and signs on the walls, the Guinness, perhaps a few auld fellas in permanent residence at the bar. But while there are many pubs in town that do follow this very broad template, especially Old Man Pubs, it’s never been anywhere nearly as identikit in local practice as the ‘overseas Oirish pub‘ you get from the likes of the Irish Pub Company, which have been marketed so effectively for decades.

But when a bar (pub?) does take an intentional step away from that globally-recognised experience, design-wise, what do we call it? And to whom does it cater? We’ll explore those questions this week with a visit to Doom Slice at Pawn Shop. Although on first glance it looks more ‘European hipster bar’ than ‘Irish pub,’ we’ll argue that it’s got clear DNA from both.

The taps at Pawn ShopThis Dame Street spot was formerly home to Berlin Bar, which was briefly notorious locally for flouting Covid restrictions and, unsurprisingly, subsequently losing their license. After several years of paperwork and renovation, Pawn Shop opened in its place. While not connected to the previous business, it did carry through something of a ‘European’ vibe, with carefully-curated spaces, upcycled furniture (including, of course, old pianos), electronic music of a particular type and a clear visual language. But it feels just as much ‘Irish pub’ when you look at (and behind) the bar – Guinness and Beamish, of course, but also a wider array of local independent beers: their own lager from Trouble, called Trouble at the Pawn Shop, plus Ambush and some rotating taps from Whiplash and Wicklow Wolf. We’ll give them a pass for the Neck Oil, given the other options. The staff, too, are clearly experienced at working in other local pubs – and we’d argue this is another element that sets Irish pubs apart from their counterparts elsewhere. Here, they seem equally ready to manage a stag do stumbling across from Temple Bar as they do making a much wider range of cocktails than one sees in most nearby places.

Pizza and a pint, on a pianoAnd while it’s *slightly* confusing where you need to go to order your slice of Detroit-style pizza by Doom Slice as there is an indoor hatch that might or might not be serving, plus an outdoor one, it’s easily sorted out. It is quite a tasty slice, it must be said, and it’s one of the cheaper options for food and a pint in Dublin (without the Instagram-driven queue for Bambino – why stand outside when you can sit inside with your slice and beer)?

This is, perhaps, why it’s much more fully-stocked with Young People than many other pubs, and there’s nothing wrong with that; while the overall crowd did skew a bit ‘younger’ than the places we typically frequent, we were by no means the only ‘Olds’ there (though that may be a different story late at night – they do stay open well beyond our bedtimes).

So, is it a bar or is it a pub?

In short, yes.

Where: 14 Dame Ln, Dublin 2, D02 XC91
Access from the city centre: In it
Food: Detroit-style pizza
Sport: Mostly not, only major events
TVs: Fairly hidden, but artistically framed
Music: Loud and electronic, in a good way
Family-friendliness: Daytime, perhaps…but not so much at night
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Porterhouse, all the Temple Bar tourist traps, Thomas Read’s/The Oak, The Christchurch, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, The Brazen Head, or wander into The Liberties for spots like Dudley’s, The Thomas House, Lucky’s and more…
Haunted: A ghost? In *this* 19th century building?
Local sites of note: Olympia Theatre, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty Library, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia
Other notes: Basement toilets
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Peter’s Pub

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Peter's PubA quick entry, this week – perhaps fitting, as it’s a tiny pub, but one that’s right in the centre of things. Indeed, it would be hard for Peter’s Pub to be much more central – just off Stephen’s Green, and steps from the Gaiety Theatre, it occupies a busy corner-ish spot.

Although it was owned and run by the same family for the better part of 50 years, a retirement last year saw it enter the same ownership group as pubs such as Fagan’s; that seems to be when the ‘no TV’ rule ended, as there is now a screen for the sport. But the good news is that the Hope tap remained, and it’s kept in good shape (which you’d rather, er, hope, at €8.20 a pint), complete with the ‘brewed 5 miles away’ sign on said tap.

Pint of HopeAnd there are some much-needed Pavement Pints seats outside; as mentioned, Peter’s Pub is very small, and is clearly working with what might best be called a[n] ‘historic’ layout (it’s all late 19th/early 20th century vibes – dark wood, brass, framed pictures), so there’s limited room inside. It can feel rather cramped on a busy sunny afternoon, and is perhaps best suited for a quick stop-off on a stroll around the area.

For the beer nerd, it’s also handy for Craft Central, should you need to pick up a few interesting cans, and a very short walk from both Caribou and Sheehan’s – very useful options for a wider range of producers and styles, although you won’t generally find much in the way of lower prices in this part of town.

But given how relatively infrequently one does see support for local independent beer in most Irish pubs (hence our joy at The Christchurch’s long-awaited opening), we believe it’s important to note it where it’s pouring well – perhaps consider a visit as part of wishing a happy 10th anniversary to Hope!

Where: 1 Johnson Pl, Dublin, D02 HW58
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Lunchtime soup and toasties
Sport: Very rugby-coded
TVs: Visible depending on where you are in the pub
Music: A bit MOR on our visit
Family-friendliness: Quite busy and crowded for kids, we’d suggest one of the other neighbouring spots
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Sheehan’s, Neary’s, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Bar Rua, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Sinnott’s Bar and more
Haunted: There has been a pub here since the 18th century (allegedly) – but no good stories, so far as we know…
Local sites of note: Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central, Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade, St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street
Other notes: Also a reasonable whiskey selection
Socials: Facebook, Instagram