Month: September 2024

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Swift

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Swift sign under My Goodness / My GuinnessWe’re still just warming up for all things Autumnal, so while we wait for Spooky Season to properly kick off, we’re visiting a very ‘normal’ pub this week – we’re back in The Liberties to stop in for a pint at Swift.

But wait, I hear you ask – wasn’t this The Magnet a hot second ago? Well…yes. And it still has a very pleasant magnet-themed mosaic at the front door. But wait, you ask again – before that, wasn’t it Agnes Browne’s as recently as 2022? Uh…also yes. Hang on, you persist – wasn’t this the site of the Wig & Pen, and not so long ago? Correct again. And before that another pub, and another pub, ad infinitum?

The still-here magnet mosaic at the door

Well, perhaps not quite *that* long, but there has been a pub or pub-adjacent business of some description here for quite some time. The building now occupied by Swift isn’t as old as its unassuming next door neighbour, which may be Dublin’s oldest extant domestic dwelling, dating to the 17th century (you can, as always, blame the Wide Streets Commission for the absence of much of medieval Dublin – though there are bits around if you know where to look), but it would seem to have been here in some form since the mid-18th century, despite its 19th century appearance. And, speaking of that 19th century façade: ‘The current shopfront is out of character with the dignity of the building and the historic setting of the church opposite’ suggested the authors of the Thomas Street ACA Inventory of Buildings back in 2009, when this was the rather more downmarket ‘Booze 2 Go’ – likely not a sentiment we would want to argue with.

In that sense, the parade of pub names since that time is no bad thing, but what do we think of the current incarnation?

A glass of Scraggy Bay at SwiftAs it happens, there are a lot of positives: the interior is a tidy version of ‘traditional Irish pub,’ with dark colours – lots of deep greens and reds – and a variety of snug-like seating options. Independent beer is represented by Kinnegar’s Scraggy Bay, and there were a variety of non-alcoholic and cocktail options on offer as well. There is Guinness, of course, and a frankly great €10 pint-and-toastie deal – ‘Not The Brazen Head‘ notes the chalkboard proclaiming the deal.

The busy bar at SwiftNow, my personal favourite Jonathan Swift-themed pub is, oddly enough, The Dean Swift in London – in my defence, it has wonderful food and some great cask options, which are a rarity around these parts – but Dublin’s Swift is a pleasant spot for a pint, too – and rather closer to the clergyman-satirist’s more frequent stomping grounds and burial place.

The Liberties is an excellent spot for a pub crawl, and Swift makes a fine addition to the area – continuing a centuries-long tradition.

Where: 131 Thomas St, The Liberties, Dublin, D08 P8H3
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 49, 54A, 77A, 123, 150, 151, G1, G2, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Toasties
Sport: Football & the usual big sporting events
TVs: Big screen in the main bar
Music: Ska – at least on my visit, they had a tremendous ska playlist – and live music (trad & other genres) some evenings
Family-friendliness: Not a great spot for the littles
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Dudley’s is across the street, with Arthur’s,  Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, The Christchurch Inn, Tailors Hall, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also a bit further away
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen's Church
Haunted: No obvious stories, but this has been a busy commercial street since at least medieval times…maybe there’s a spook in the cellar!
Other notes: The local archaeology report is a fascinating read over a pint – imagine what’s under your feet
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bleeding Horse

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Exterior of The Bleeding Horse: flags, Carlsberg branding and a portrait of a horse

We are not *quite* into Spooky Season yet – indeed, it has been so unseasonably hot that I’ve had to create a Beer Garden tag – but my thoughts have nevertheless turned toward the creepier side of things when it comes to pubs. And although I cannot find any ghost stories linked to The Bleeding Horse, it does come with a spooky-adjacent literary history, and so, to Camden Street.

A quote from James Joyce, etched in stoneThe Bleeding Horse gets the usual James Joyce namecheck in Ulysses, complete with a stone at the door to remind the visitor, but I’m personally more interested in the Sheridan Le Fanu mention. While MR James nerds like me get excited about Le Fanu’s role in shaping the modern ghost story, his mention of The Bleeding Horse is in one of his earlier works,
The Cock and Anchor (no snickering at the back). Set in 1710, the pub is described in the book as ‘…a small, old-fashioned building, something between an ale-house and an inn.’ And while this is largely literary license, that part does have a ring of authenticity.

A pint of Whiplash Rollover on a table at The Bleeding HorseA 17th century ale-house would have been somewhat akin to our modern ‘wet pub’ (yes, it’s a terrible phrase), with drink on offer, but little else, while an inn would have offered accommodation as well as refreshment. And although ‘public houses’ began to be licensed in both Ireland and Britain in the late 17th century, it’s still all a bit scattershot, and there are gradations and edge cases all over. And while a 1649 date for the pub’s foundation often pops up, one wonders if this has more to do with its maybe-possibly association with the Battle of Rathmines, which might have given The Bleeding Horse its name (or, equally, may not have – the story of a bloody, battle-frightened horse is a bit too Just So). It would seem to be spectacularly bad luck to build and open a new business just as the country is about to be laid waste to by Cromwell and his troops, but then, stranger things have happened. That said, if it was a coaching inn, it was likely a relatively substantial establishment, and one that stretched at least a bit further back. In short, a little proper archival digging would be quite an interesting exercise!

A table at The Bleeding Horse

But with that said, the pub we see today – and a large, somewhat barn-like building it is – only dates from 1871 (though I would be willing to wager the cellars have some older bits and bobs), when it was redesigned by RJ Stirling, early in his architectural career; he would later go on to serve as a key architect for Trinity College. That ye-olde-feeling interior, on the other hand, is even more recent – it’s from a renovation in the 1990s. Again, though, this is no bad thing, as the feeling of the place does ‘work, and the maze-like interior as you wind up the stairs offers a variety of nooks and crannies to settle into. And while there are the usual Carlsberg (whose branding is currently covering most of the exterior) and Guinness taps (and also Murphy’s, for those seeking an alternative stout), there are also local independent options with a few Whiplash choices, too.

Perhaps, though, the spookiest thing about The Bleeding Horse is its more recent literary history: The Bleeding Horse and Other Ghost Stories by Brian J. Showers (he of local publisher Swan River Press) is a cracking read, and one I’d highly recommend for any visitor to the area. Le Fanu may be long dead, but his tradition remains alive; no better place to check it out than at a pub whose name he would have recognized.

Where: 24-25 Camden Street Upper, Saint Kevin’s, Dublin 2, D02 NP22
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 14, 15, 16, 27, 56A, 65B, 77A, 83, 140, 151, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Elevated pub grub with some more interesting offerings than many spots
Sport: Football, rugby, horse racing, F1, golf…really, all the sports
TVs: All over the place
Music: Live music and comedy on weekends and some evenings; check the socials
Family-friendliness: More of a grownup vibe, and can be very crowded on big sporting event days
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Devitt's, Teach Tábhairne Ag Teach, The Camden, Ryan's of Camden Street…and the local ‘Spoon's, Keavan's Port. Or, carry on to Dame Street for The Beer Temple and The Oak
Local sites of note: Whelan's, Iveagh Gardens, St Stephen's Green, National Concert Hall, Marsh's Library, St Patrick's Cathedral
Haunted: Only in the most literary sense, though I admit I’m not the biggest fan of the recent restoration of the horse, which does creep me out
Other notes: Handy for a bookish pint after picking something up at The Last Bookshop
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Arthur’s Pub

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Across the street from Arthur's PubArthur’s Pub – or, if you prefer, Arthur’s Blues and Jazz Club – sits on a prominent corner in the Liberties, and while it presents itself as ‘the nearest pub on the route to the Guinness Storehouse‘ and has name-checked Arthur Guinness, it has much more going for it than simply a handy location near one of Dublin’s most-visited landmarks. Although renovated as recently as 2022, the updates manage to feel very much bedded-in, yet with all the modern comforts.

And while there are a fair few spots nearby in The Liberties that cater to my craft beer preferences, Arthur’s does a great job of showcasing a range of independent Irish breweries, in addition to that extremely-fresh Guinness (even if it’s actually brewed a little bit further along than the Storehouse); there’s usually a good selection from Wicklow Wolf, Trouble, O’Hara’s, Rascals and more. In many ways, this is what I would expect for a pub that’s very much on the tourist trail – yes, there’s your expected Guinness, but you are also showing off other local producers, through both food and drink, and giving visitors a much fuller picture of what’s available here in Ireland. Oddly, this rarely happens, as many pubs that cater primarily to tourists carry only macro beers – so it’s great to see it. Arguably, the music venue upstairs does something similar – there’s a good mix of trad along with the jazz and blues in the name, which can be harder to find elsewhere in town.

The fireplace at Arthur's PubBut I love having an excuse to go to Arthur’s during the Libertine Market Crawl, a monthly craft and art market spread across three other neighbouring pubs, most recently Lucky’s, Dudley’s and Love Tempo. There’s always an eclectic but well-curated mix on offer, and Arthur’s seems to draw some of vendors on the spookier end of things, so yes, I am being catered to. And while the pub is by no means ancient by European standards – it was built c. 1850, and has been a pub since the 1860s (though not, back then, under its present Guinness-themed branding, of course) – its proximity to St Catherine’s Church, site of the execution of Robert Emmet in 1803, gives it a bit of a haunting air, enhanced by the large stone fireplace, covered in drippy candle wax at the far end of the pub, complete with a death mask of Emmet on the wall above.

For the tourist who may feel slightly discombobulated by a trip to the ultra-modern (and pricey) Gravity Bar at the Guinness Storehouse, just steps away, Arthur’s can help re-set the system; it feels like a very ‘authentic’ pub, albeit one with a more-interesting-than-usual set of offerings – something for everyone in the best way.

Where: 28 Thomas St, The Liberties, Dublin, D08 VF83
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 49, 54A, 77A, 123, 150, 151, G1, G2, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Elevated pub grub and small plates
Sport: Plenty of sporting options elsewhere in the neighbourhood
TVs: Not here
Music: Trad, jazz and general indie during the day, live jazz and blues upstairs
Family-friendliness: Plenty of kids about for lunch on weekend afternoons
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Dudley's is across the street, with Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, Swift, The Christchurch Inn, Tailors Hall, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also a bit further away
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: They lean *all the way in* with the Emmet death mask, but alas, he’s said to haunt The Brazen Head instead…
Other notes: Great vendors on the Libertine Market Crawl, always a kid- and dog-friendly event
Socials: Instagram, Facebook, YouTube