Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bridge 1859

Outside The Bridge 1859While it may seem that we rarely venture south of the Liffey (true, really), we recently had occasion to be down in our old Ballsbridge stomping grounds, and so returned to The Bridge 1859 for the first time in quite a while. We last stopped into this beautifully-decorated pub just before we moved out of the area, and enjoyed a last fresh Pilsner Urquell from their gravity tank. This time, the welcome was just as warm, the décor on point, the food excellent – but the beer selection nowadays is, as the kids say, mid. Let’s review.

Flower arrangement and signs for Changing TimesThere has been much local discussion surrounding the launch of Changing Times beer; it’s something of a collaborative effort among a number of pubs, including some heavy hitters like The Long Hall, Doheny & Nesbitt and The Palace Bar. While it’s proclaimed as ‘brewed in Glasnevin,’ it doesn’t seem to have a single pub north of the river serving it, at least, so far. The beers offered so far are a lager (clearly for the Heineken fan), a hazy pale ale (not really sure who it’s aimed at beyond; it feels a bit unkind to say ‘people who don’t like beer,’ but…) and now, a stout. The stout is by far the most drinkable of the three on offer so far, and seems to be the only one served at any kind of ‘discount,’ but again, it’s essentially like a very light Murphy’s versus having much of its own character. It’s one thing to launch a new beer brand, but it’s another to launch it with the kind of ‘meh’ beers that gave early-2000s investor-driven ‘craft beer’ a bad name, especially in a market with comparatively little of the real thing, as it were.

The main bar at The BridgeAnd that may be all well and good for many customers, but these new brews haven’t (mostly) muscled out the usual macro suspects; it’s the ‘good’ beers that have been jettisoned to make space, including – really a loss here – the Pilsner Urquell. Removed from The Bridge’s menu now are Rye River Upstream Pale Ale, Warsteiner lager and, er, Madri. The Madri may be no great loss, but the others are keenly felt (especially if, say, A Friend were really looking forward to a Pilsner Urquell, sighed to make do with a Warsteiner and then realised that the only drinkable lager was Carlsberg). To add insult to injury, the hand-painted panel all about Pilsner Urquell has been partially, but not entirely, covered by a television. Ouch.

A TV partially covering the former Pilsner Urquell info; look how they massacred my boy.

And I get it – it’s a pub that largely caters to a rugby crowd (albeit one of all ages – kids are quite welcome here), and so it’s not aiming to be a hangout for people who like good beer, but it did once have good beer, and now it…doesn’t. It feels rather like so many higher-end Irish restaurants do: there may be a well-curated wine list, amazing food and nothing but the most boring macro beers possible. And that’s not to say they should dump Guinness or Carlsberg – I like both Guinness and Carlsberg – but I’d much rather have the option to support other independent local breweries – at least before, there was the Rye River option. And with so many duplicate macro taps, there were plenty of spots to shuffle things around a bit instead of losing the others. Perhaps the most telling part of the visit was that our waitress didn’t even know what Pilsner Urquell was, even though it was painted behind her on the wall. As James once sang, ‘…if I hadn’t seen such riches, I could live with being poor.’

That said, it’s entirely possible that other publicans will see this effort and, perhaps, give another local beer a shot on one of their taps – we’ve previously discussed Four Provinces appearing at The Tolka House – and there are still plenty of usual suspects there for everyone – so let’s hope that some are a bit more open to experimentation. The prices are more likely to suit everyone involved, too.

But again, there are many positives at The Bridge 1859: excellent food, a lovely atmosphere, very cosy seating and attentive service. Shame about the beer – pour one out for the Pilsner Urquell

Where: 13 Ballsbridge Terrace, Dublin 4, D04 C7K6
Access from the city centre: Buses 4, 7, 7A, 38A, 39, 39A, 70, 120, E1, E2; 35ish minute walk
Food: Gastropub offerings & snacks
Sport: Rugby, football, the usual big event sports
TVs: All around the pub
Music: Veered toward the MOR
Family-friendliness: More-interesting-than-most kids’ menu
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – The Horse Show House is down the road, and a further walk to The Old Spot and The Bath Pub
Local sites of note: RDS, Aviva Stadium, various embassies, National Print Museum
Haunted: Something something Pilsner Urquell…
Other notes: Beautifully-appointed rooms upstairs for private events
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Briody’s

Outside Briody'sThis week’s pub is one that we’ve both been asked to profile repeatedly, and, in nearly equal measure, begged not to reveal it as a secret hidden gem. Is it possible to satisfy both of these audiences? Let’s find out – and so, we venture back to Marlborough Street, home to The Confession Box, Piper’s Corner and The Flowing Tide. Our destination today is Briody’s, a pub whose otherwise-unremarkable exterior seems to be missing its top floor (along with its twin in the centre of the Georgian terrace)…but it simply seems to get on with things.

Inside, it’s really a single room, though there is a bookable upstairs space (don’t worry, there is a ceiling)…and while it doesn’t have the lavish cut-glass and mirrors of pubs like The Hut or Gaffney’s, it does share a common feature with those two: it’s a proper Old Man Pub. If Old Man Pubs are a new concept to you, I highly recommend picking up Ali Dunworth’s A Compendium of Irish Pints – we did also interview her on the Beer Ladies Podcast about the book – to get the full lowdown, but you certainly know one when you enter one. While I can no longer claim the honour of having been the only patron under 50 (maybe, though, 65 or so here), the number of women was vanishingly small, but in no way was it an unwelcome feeling. I have absolutely been in pubs where being the only woman was Not Great, though, interestingly, it’s never happened to me here in Ireland. Whether that’s a feature of the local scene or a function of me being too old to notice or care may be up for debate, but in any event, Briody’s felt warm and inviting, though also left me to my own devices, which was very much what I was looking for. Solo pints in some Old Man Pubs seem to turn into social occasions – looking at you, The Boh – which is all well and good when you’re in the mood for that, but it felt much more optional at Briody’s – it would have been easy to slip into conversation about the racing, but it felt equally acceptable to relax on one’s own.

A pint of Scraggy Bay at Briody'sAlso unlike many other Old Man Pubs, there was an independent beer option: Kinnegar’s Scraggy Bay. In some pubs that don’t have that kind of turnover for non-Guinness options, they aren’t always as fresh, but there were no such issues here. Guinness was, of course, plentiful, but there were many pints of lager being consumed, too – it is slightly unusual to see Tuborg on one of the taps in a Dublin pub, but I have a soft spot for many Carlsberg products, so it was quite welcome. The décor is, again, by no means fancy, but it’s very well-kept: red and cream paint, lighter wood tones and simple brass lamps on the bar. The crowd was clearly mostly regulars, and although most were deeply invested in the multiple channels of horse racing, there were other long-running conversations, too.

The bar at Briody'sAnd while it may be true that this is not the cleanest nor most well-kept part of Dublin, that is presumably part of what keeps the tourists away, Georgian architecture notwithstanding. And although some parts of Reddit may be thoroughly convinced that we’re all just waiting to get murdered north of the Liffey, there are signs of positive development; newer pubs like The Morris Bar, just a short walk away, suggest that things are slowly improving. But for a pub like Briody’s that’s been here for over a century in various guises, it seems to be content to keep its current mix of regulars and semi-regulars who drop in whenever they are in town.

And so, on their behalf, I’ll suggest you stop in for that quiet pint or two, maybe alone, maybe with 1-2 friends, but don’t overwhelm the spot with a coach tour – let Briody’s keep that ‘local pub’ vibe. With so many varied pubs to choose from in this part of town, you can mix and match styles for a unique pub crawl.

Where: 97 Marlborough Street, Dublin, IE D01 PP92
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, Buses 9, 13, 14, 83, 122, 123, 8-ish minute walk
Food: Toasties & similar fare
Sport: Horse racing, football, GAA & more; if you can wager on it, you can watch it
TVs: All around the small pub
Music: Very much a background soundtrack…you’ll hear the race calls over the music; also occasional live sets
Family-friendliness: More Old Man Pub
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Flowing Tide, The Confession Box, The Palace Bar, The Morris Bar, Piper's Corner, Bowes, JR Mahon’s, The Oval Bar, Mulligan's and Mooney's of Abbey Street; also not too far from The Silver Penny if you need a ‘Spoons
Local sites of note: Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre, The Spire, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, GPO, Ha'Penny Bridge, Trinity College
Haunted: Perhaps by the missing top of the building? Would love to know the story there…the usual newspaper searches didn’t turn up much
Other notes: No need to bring your own Racing Post – there will be plenty of copies
Socials: Facebook, Instagram (both seem very quiet)

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Gill’s Corner House

Outside Gill's Pub: The GAA muralAlthough I’ve lived an extremely brief walk from James Gill’s Corner House for over 4 years, I have never managed to be going past when it was open – until now. Its ‘regular’ opening hours are nothing of the sort, but that’s part of this pub’s mythology. Gill’s Pub opens when Gill’s Pub decides to do so. So, what’s it like?

While the building is Georgian – part of one of the earliest such terraces built on the North Circular Road around 1800 (some say as early as the 1750s) – the interior feels rather less elegant and a bit more flat-roofed estate pub; very much a sense of the 1950s or 1960s as the last significant renovation. The frontage may well be a bit older than the interior, with some nods to a more deco feel, and there’s the iconic/modern GAA-themed mural on the side of the building. And that is probably the most likely reason you’re likely to find this pub open – a big match or event is on at Croke Park, just around the corner.

Pints on the back bar at Gill'sAs mentioned, the opening hours are…erratic at best. But if the door is open, you’ll find the walls lined with match-day programs and event posters from previous games and concerts (for those of us who live nearby, we can simply hear everything in the garden – a blessing or a curse, depending on the fixture or artist). But inside there is also the mural of Brendan Behan, too, as well as a wall of Behanobelia. And with good reason, for the Behan family once lived on Russell Street, which runs down the side of the pub, before they decamped to the then-far-off suburbs of Crumlin in 1937 (‘Siberia‘) – this was their local. It’s been in the Gill family since the 1930s, and by the 1970s, was one of a very few businesses in Ireland run by a woman (though if you read my friend Christina’s new book, Filthy Queens, you’ll know that there were women running brewing and hospitality businesses here, long ago – so do pick it up).

Brendan Behan on the wallBut during Behan’s youth, this area wasn’t merely residential – the Mountjoy Brewery was just down the road from Gill’s Pub (two buildings remain – it closed in 1957, the last non-Guinness brewery in Dublin* until more recent times), and the DWD Distillery a street over; this was a busy mix of industry, housing and everything that went with it. Without going into the full Brendan Behan backstory, the story is that Gill’s is the only pub he was never at some point barred from; even the Cat & Cage is meant to have invited him to seek alternative refreshment at various points, despite his painting the building. But back to Gill’s – you can get a peek inside in this 1966 documentary, Brendan Behan’s Dublin – it’s not much changed! No more cows running past, though you’ll certainly see the odd horse and cart/sulky.

And it was Brendan Behan himself who finally got us in the pub, so to speak; we attended an event for his 102nd birthday: an evening of discussion, history and song, focusing on the whole local area and the Behan family’s experience here. While we had the expected Guinness (in fine shape, despite the pub’s peculiar opening hours), I was mildly surprised to see they also offered bottles of O’Hara’s Pale Ale – that’s by no mean a given in other ‘macros only’ pubs.

On the one hand, it’s probably not an entirely representative experience at Gill’s Pub, but then, what’s normal?

Where: 555 North Circular Road N Circular Rd, Drumcondra, Dublin 1, D01 XP03
Access from the city centre: Buses 1, 13, 14, 15, 16, 40, 122, 123; 30ish minute walk
Food: Crisps, peanuts
Sport: You’re more likely here pre-gaming, but there are those TVs…
TVs: Some ancient examples in different parts of the pub
Music: It all depends
Family-friendliness: Not quite as welcoming as in young Brendan’s day, when he would take home jugs of beer to his grandmother, consuming some along the way…
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – the closest pubs to Croke Park include Phil Ryan’s Hogan Stand, The Hideout House, Clonliffe House, Juno, McGrath’s, or wander further into Drumcondra toward Fagan’s or The Cat & Cage…or walk further up (all along the banks of…) the Royal Canal toward Phibsborough.
Local sites of note: Croke Park, Mountjoy Square
Haunted: No known stories of the pub itself, but Jones’s Road is mean to have the ghost of Buck Jones, complete with horse
Other notes: I do wonder if there is any Mountjoy Brewery ephemera stashed away somewhere…
Socials: None

*Indeed, watching historic films set in Dublin can be frustrating as only ‘old’ Guinness advertising ever seems to pop up in the background, when there should have been at least a half-dozen others in the early 20th century…but good luck spotting them!

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Walsh’s

Outside Walsh's Pub, Stoneybatter. We'll pretend the finger in the corner is a ghost.While our stats here show that you seem to be extremely interested in pubs in Stoneybatter – and quite right, too, for Stoneybatter is a lovely part of Dublin – it’s more happenstance than a response to the numbers that leads us to Walsh’s this week. And frankly, we’ve put it off for far too long, as it is a delightful pub; it just happens to be surrounded by so many of my other favourite pubs, notably L. Mulligan Grocer, Hynes’ Bar and The Barber’s Bar, so going somewhere ‘new’ when in the neighbourhood is sometimes a challenge.

The post-haircut pint in question.Of course, Walsh’s is far from new, as it’s been trading on this corner since 1826, so it’s coming up on two centuries in business. One wonders if there is to be an epic celebration next year…but back to the pub itself. It’s got a beautiful mix of stained glass and dark wood, cosy nooks and a fantastic snug…really, it’s quite close to the Platonic ideal of a late-19th century Dublin pub (albeit with televisions for the footy), so its recent restoration work has been well-planned and executed. The look and feel is certainly closer to the end of the 19th century than the beginning, but that’s no critique. And while it is best-known for its Guinness, they also serve Beamish, and there are also fresh lines of Trouble’s Ambush and Kinnegar’s Scraggy Bay – it made an ideal stopping-off point for my traditional post-haircut pint not so long ago.

'Beers' in stained glass, backwardAnd Walsh’s has another point or two in its favour: it has the full-on Victorian pub splendour, without the crush of tourists you can get at The Long Hall, and it has more variety on offer, drinks-wise, than The Hut, which also has mirrors and stained glass galore. It manages to feel like both a neighbourhood pub and a destination in its own right. And on a damp afternoon, a pint by one of the colourful windows makes for a pleasantly warming experience.

Clearly, we need to do a proper Stoneybatter pub crawl write-up…but in any event, Walsh’s would be a fine spot to begin or end such an endeavour.

Where: 6 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7, D07 A382
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A; Luas Red Line, 30ish minute walk
Food: Not 100% clear if their Cheesy Chewsdays are still a going concern…otherwise, not really
Sport: Football, rugby, GAA – the usual big events and weekend matches
TVs: Screens throughout the pub
Music: Live trad and other tunes some evenings
Family-friendliness: A few kids in with their folks to watch the sport, but still mostly for grownups
Pub-crawl-ability: High – L. Mulligan. Grocer, The Glimmer Man, The Cobblestone, The Belfry, Hynes' Bar, The Barber's Bar & Bonobo are quite close; Fidelity isn't too much further away
Local sites of note: The Lighthouse Cinema, Arbour Hill Cemetery, TUD Grangegorman
Haunted: No known stories, but the snug would be an ideal spot for a customer from the previous two centuries to linger
Other notes: Pleasant whiskey selection, too
Socials: Instagram