Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bloody Stream

Exterior of The Bloody Stream, complete with bins. Yellow building with dark-blue trimWe are back this week with a ‘request pub’ – one that’s much further north than our more common north-of-the-Liffey-but-still-pretty-central stomping grounds. We’re heading out of Dublin City proper to Howth; it’s an easy trip on the DART, but a bit of a pain if, for example, you needed Dublin Bus to deposit you to a nearby spot at a predetermined time. Dublin Bus is not always especially good at the concept of ‘on time’ (but it’s pretty great on ghost buses), so the journey in this general direction involved more taxis than I typically take in a 6-month period, but we got there in the end. Our (eventual) destination was The Bloody Stream, a brightly-painted pub nestled into the Howth train station complex.

Howth is much-visited by day-trippers, walkers and other sight-seers, and with good reason. It’s a seaside town with all the usual outdoor amenities as well as the occasionally-open National Transport Museum of Ireland. But it’s also a commuter town, with the aforementioned DART station running regular trains into Dublin City Centre (and on to Bray, for more seaside travels). But while the DART has only existed since the 1980s (and no, there’s still no train or tram to or from Dublin Airport), Howth Station – not to be confused with Howth Junction – has been here in something approaching its current form since the 1850s, with services going back to the 1840s. And while the interior of The Bloody Stream is dark, cosy and delightfully atmospheric, it’s not by any means an ‘old’ pub – it opened in a derelict part of the railway station in 1995 – and this is no bad thing!

Inside The Bloody Stream: dark wood chairs, fireplaceI’d recently had an exchange on the socials lamenting the lack of railway station bars in Ireland, and while we have nothing here quite like the small-but-mighty Stalybridge Station Buffet Bar, a strong case can be made that The Bloody Stream may be counted in this number (even though the pub itself is not directly accessible from the platform – possibly a disqualifying point for some). But perhaps it doesn’t feel like a railway pub – and that’s fine, too – but it is very handy for the train.

And while there is not a large number of independent beer taps, there was some very fresh Handsome Jack from Hope (located at Howth Junction, rather than in Howth – a brewery tour is highly recommended) on for our visit. There’s also Murphy’s for the stout crowd, presumably those folks who are not bitter, and plenty of Guinness. There is a sign outside encouraging visitors to ‘split the G,’ but please feel free to ignore that – though given that it is a touristy area, it’s at least a well-done sign.

A pint of Hope Handsome Jack in front of the fireplace at The Bloody StreamWe enjoyed excellent food and service when we stopped in, which isn’t necessarily a given in some pubs mid-week in the middle of the afternoon (hardly a fruitful time for most), so it was much appreciated. There is outdoor seating as well around both ends of the pub, but we kept to the more dimly-lit interior on a lovely sunny afternoon. Having offspring who actively avoid the sun may be odd to others, but hey, at least their vampiric ways are preventing long-term sun damage, and the pub interior really is lovely, all stone and dark wood.

There is one thing I couldn't discover much about, however; I’ve had multiple people ask for this pub as an addition to the ‘Haunted?‘ category, and I love nothing more than a good bit of ghostlore in a pub. However, I didn’t see anything in the pub itself, though they do give a good accounting of the area’s popular history on their menus (Vikings, battles – that sort of thing). The pub does take its name from the stream that runs underneath, so it’s at least ideally set up for Stone Tape Theory enthusiasts to take and run with…but nothing more than that. That said, there are plenty of entries for Howth in dúchas.ie, including a holy well nearby with perhaps the same water source so…does that count? Of course, if you do have a ghost story to share, please do! We need a proper ‘Irish Pub Ghost Stories’ book out there – we can’t let the Neighbouring Island have all the fun in that regard.

But all told, The Bloody Stream is a lovely pub; it does feel like a trip away from the city, and has something for both the railway enthusiast and seafood lover, while also supporting local suppliers. Far too many higher-end restaurants and pubs will trumpet their investment in local produce, but skip over the local beer, so while I’d love to see an additional tap or two, it’s good to see Hope so close to where it’s made, and in top condition.

But definitely take the train – the bus is rather woeful this far out of town!

Where: Howth Railway Station, Howth, Dublin
Access from the city centre: DART from Connelly or other handy station; 6 bus
Food: All the usual ‘nicer’ pub grub hits, very well-executed – lots of seafood, unsurprisingly
Sport: Rugby, GAA, football, etc…
TVs: Scattered here and there
Music: More touristy soundtrack – trad and U2 – but also live events
Family-friendliness: Kids’ menu and good desserts
Pub-crawl-ability: Low; nearly a 10-minute walk to many other Howth pubs like The Abbey Tavern
Local sites of note: Howth Castle, St Mary’s Abbey, Ireland’s Eye, Bog of Frogs
Haunted: Folklore-adjacent?
Other notes: Main floor toilets with lovely wallpaper
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand

Outside Phil Ryan's The Hogan StandA proper ‘Pubs of Croke Park’ roundup is long overdue, and with so many events on this summer, we may as well finally start working on that. While we’ve already covered a few handy ones like Gill’s Corner House and Juno, it’s time to really start chipping away at the full list, so that all those Oasis fans know where to find their (cigarettes and) alcohol in the area.

Although it’s obvious to those of us who live nearby (we have a handy mailing list alerting us of fixtures, crowds and even free tickets at times), it’s worth emphasizing for the out-of-town visitor that all of these pubs are absolutely slammed before big events, whether it’s a concert or big GAA game, so it can be well worth booking in advance and walking a little further to the stadium itself – or, failing that, simply starting early. The game-day or pre-concert experience is quite a different beast to what you’ll find on a quiet Sunday afternoon, but having said that, each pub in the area still has very much its own personality. This week, we’re looking at Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand.

A pint of Beamish at The Hogan Stand
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Like its near neighbour Gill’s Corner House, this pub occupies the ground floors of a few Georgian terraced houses, and the front has been enclosed as a covered beer garden, which can be a bit smoky. Inside, it’s very much a classic inner-city pub – a mix of dark wood, table and chairs and a fair few televisions. There’s no craft beer here – even Beamish has only been back on tap since late in 2024 – but there is great value (by Dublin standards): that Beamish is only a fiver. Again, that may be a different experience on big event days, but on a chill afternoon, it’s a welcome treat. Otherwise, there’s your standard Guinness/Heineken lineup, again with some Tuborg in the mix, and both 0.0 options for the flagship beers.

Some footy on at The Hogan StandIt’s very much a ‘locals’ pub most of the time, but a welcoming one; I’ve had out-of-town guests wind up there and have great chats with the barstaff. No frills, but no pretention, either. If you are looking to pre-game before an event at Croke Park, it’s hard to be better-placed for an easy walk in to the stadium. And, of course, the pub’s name couldn’t be more appropriate for a stopping-off point before going in to Croke Park itself – a fine way to get into the atmosphere.

Where: 514 North Circular Road, Dublin 1, Dublin, IE D01 CF57
Access from the city centre: Buses 1, 13, 14, 15, 16, 40, 122, 123; 30ish minute walk
Food: Crisps, peanuts and scampi fries
Sport: Rugby, GAA, football, horse racing…
TVs: Plenty about the place
Music: Some live music events; keep an eye on the socials
Family-friendliness: Always seem to see a few running around
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – the closest pubs to Croke Park include Gill’s Corner House, The Hideout House, Clonliffe House, Juno, McGrath's, or wander further into Drumcondra toward Fagan's or The Cat & Cage…or walk further still (all along the banks of…) the Royal Canal toward Phibsborough
Local sites of note: Croke Park, Mountjoy Square
Haunted: We need more ghost stories in this part of town to be shared
Other notes: Main-floor toilets
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Wind Jammer

Outside The Wind JammerLocals know this, but the visitor to Dublin may not know that horse racing is Kind of a Big Deal. There are endless ads from the various wagering platforms leading up to some of the larger race meetings, and as we’re in the middle of Cheltenham Week*, it seemed appropriate to venture to one of the many Old Man Pubs that draw in the betting racing crowd. And so, to The Wind Jammer.

Of course, there’s more to the pub than this; it’s one of the few remaining early houses that’s actually using its license as intended, and you can grab a pint as early as 7 am. We did a Beer Ladies Podcast (back soon!) on early houses a few years back, recorded live at Slattery’s, though these days, even there they open at the comparatively late hour of 9 am most days. Early houses have been in steady decline for decades, as their core clientele of dock workers and market porters have disappeared, though you do still get medics on night shifts and late-night clubbers, along with a set of regulars. And while we are not *just* a Three Castles Burning stan website, the recent episode on the state of early houses is well worth your time – give it a listen.

The bar at The Wind JammerBut back to The Wind Jammer: the exterior looks more than a little tired, but once in the door, it’s perhaps surprisingly tidy and well-wallpapered – not to the standard of the much-newer Morris Bar, of course, but in really rather good nick, all told. Our small crew had no trouble finding a comfortable table and were immediately trading race day tips with regulars. And while there are no craft or independent options, you can get a Beamish, and there’s plenty of Guinness 0.0 for more responsible day-drinking.

A pint of Guinness 0.0 at The Wind JammerWhile it’s only a short walk from more ‘hipster’ bars like The Dockers Bar and the various tech company offices that have sprung up nearby, it maintains very much an inner-city pub feeling – no frills, mostly regulars, but at the same time, no ‘Slaughtered Lamb’ feeling when office workers or tourists stop in; it’s a warm welcome for all.

So while there are probably not many modern use cases for the 7 am pint, and even fewer places to obtain one, you’ve still got The Wind Jammer. Whether you’re stopping in for a pint while visiting or if you have a hot tip on a horse, you’ll be in good company.

Where: 111 Townsend St, Dublin 2, D02 TX96
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C3/C4, 15A, 15B, 56A, 77A, 18-ish minute walk
Food: Crisps and peanuts
Sport: Horse racing, rugby, GAA, football…
TVs: Visible from every seat in the pub
Music: Some live music events, but more tuned to the sport
Family-friendliness: Not much for the kids to do, unless they like to follow the sport
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – The Dockers Bar, The Lombard, The Ferryman, Kennedy’s and The Ginger Man are a bit further on toward Merrion Square, but the vibe certainly changes as you head in that direction
Local sites of note: 3Arena, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, EPIC, Grand Canal Dock
Haunted: The toilets are certainly haunted by a smoky fug
Other notes: Another Tuborg sighting – is it becoming a norm at Old Man Pubs?
Socials: Facebook

* I started with €25 and ended up with €29.60 – so no complaints! Profit.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Tapped

Outside TappedBack in the day – you know, perhaps 3 years ago – this week’s pub was The Porterhouse Central. It was a very handy spot in that you could enjoy a mix of interesting beers from Porterhouse and various guest options, but you avoided Temple Bar. Granted, you are still right in the middle of Dublin, and things could be busy. Depending on the time of year it could be full of tourists making their way from Trinity College across the street, but on the whole, it was a useful meeting point that offered more than the usual city centre beer options. Indeed, it was an ideal spot for that all-important post-race pint after the VHI Women’s Mini-Marathon (only a 10K, but we’ll let that slide). It was on that occasion that, complete with medal, I made what I didn’t realise would be my final visit to this pub under that name. Only a few weeks later, it vanished into renovation, re-emerging in its current form: Tapped.

While still a part of the larger Porterhouse group, it’s been styled very much more as a ‘bar’ vs a ‘pub,’ and it’s taken a while to settle. My first few visits were, it must be said, not great. The initial redesign felt rather like they’d ordered a ‘taproom’ kit from the early 2000s – lots of plastic, colours just a bit too bright and faux-industrial, and the service was, frankly, poor. Even on the relatively quiet times I’d stopped in, it seemed nearly impossible to get served…yet that was rather less difficult for the younger men around me, or so it seemed. Comparing notes offline at the time, it seemed quite a few other women had a similar experience, and so I essentially gave up trying for a few years.

A beer and menu at TappedHowever, I happened to be in the area and had a bit of time after a meeting, so I gave Tapped another try. I’m pleased to say that the interior, while still feeling just slightly too ‘taproom’ has been softened and improved. There is now much more comfortable seating and the lighting is more dialled-in; it feels warmer on the whole. There are screens showing the beer lineup, direct from Untappd (no relation), and there are quite a few cocktail options as well, plus many food choices – it’s vastly improved on this front. And it is certainly one of the most varied beer selections you’ll get in this part of Dublin: there are the expected options from Porterhouse and local stalwarts such as Rascals, Whiplash, Hope and Trouble. But if you’re looking for a spot to watch the rugby with less-adventurous friends, there are also ‘normal’ beers like Heineken, Guinness and Beamish, plus some useful non-alcoholic options.

The bar at Tapped

It’s not the sort of welcome you get at, say, Underdog, but service was much improved, though it’s hard to gauge how it goes at a busier time. The crowd still tended toward ‘younger,’ but that’s no bad thing…it simply didn’t feel as mixed as many other spots, and it’s natural you would get at least a bit of a ‘student’ element so close to Trinity (if not student-friendly prices).

Dare we say that Tapped is Dublin’s ‘most improved’ pub over the past year or so, at least, taking complete re-brandings out of the picture? It’s an entirely subjective take, but I feel much more warmly toward the spot…I may even stop in again after this year’s VHI Mini-Marathon.

But first, there’s the actual Dublin City Half Marathon to get through…that’s almost certainly going to be one for Juno after!

Where: 47 Nassau Street, Dublin, IE D02 P285
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Gastropub offerings, pizza & nibbles – even a fancy spicebag
Sport: Big events on – Six Nations, Premier League and the like
TVs: Screens throughout may show either sport or the latest Untappd check-ins
Music: Indie vibes
Family-friendliness: Feels less welcoming than in its previous incarnation, but the food menu has many options during the day
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Bowes, O'Neill's, Cassidy’s, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon's, The Oval Bar, Porterhouse Temple Bar and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Local sites of note: Trinity College, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), Leinster House, Irish Whiskey Museum, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM
Haunted: Still missing the old Porterhouse Central wall panelling, which surely felt haunted
Other notes: Open from 11 am – 3 am if either day drinking or late nights are your thing
Socials: Instagram, Facebook