Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Biddy Mulligan’s

The Sackville Lounge - er - Biddy Mulligan'sEdit, mid-February 2025: Well, that lasted a hot second. We’ll revisit when it re-opens (again), with cocktails.

The signs, both literal and metaphorical, were not great.

The former Sackville Lounge, which had a reputation as a mix of Old Man Pub and dive-y spot to meet somewhat strange and unusual people, had been closed since Covid. But rather than re-opening under that name, with its delightful neon sign (still there, at present), it gained a new identity – and much opprobrium.

The new signage now proclaims the pub to be Biddy Mulligan’s Old Ale and Stout House (‘since 1914’), in the kind of font you’d normally find in plastic letters on a strip-mall Oirish Pub in, say, Arkansas. The hand-wringing on Dublin Reddit and on local lifestyle websites was swift, and even the national press got involved, interviewing the delightful local historian and podcaster, Donal Fallon, on his take. Fallon is hard at work on a book on Dublin pub history – something we are very much looking forward to here – and so was ready with a thoughtful opinion:

Looking at the new signage above the old Sackville Lounge, Mr Fallon compared the signage to a “poor imitation” of McSorley's Ale House in New York, which is a very historic institution.

“To try and recreate something distinctly Irish American here falls flat,” he said…
“A number of pub interiors are rightly protected architecturally, but it's ultimately people that make a public house special,” he added.

Inside the Sackville Lounge/Biddy Mulligan'sWe’ll come back to his point about the people later, but at first glance, I had the same reaction – why on earth had what looked like an Oirsh pub been dropped into the centre of Dublin? While it’s true that there are Dublin pubs that cater more to the tourist trade than to locals (and not just in Temple Bar) that do dip into a more stereotypical ‘Irish pub’ feel, to tip over into what we might call Full Oirish seemed, well, unseemly. Unnecessary. Just a bit, well, naff.

But as is so often the case with these sort of things, life moves on, and it’s no longer front of mind.

And so, when I was meeting a friend ‘at the Sackville Lounge‘ recently, I’d completely forgotten that it was the pub that had caused all the furore; until, that is, I couldn’t find it on the map, and I realised that *this* was the pub with the unfortunate rebranding. Nevertheless, we were committed, and so went in, and found it…quite pleasant?

Yes, I was surprised, too.

Reflecting in a mirror at the Sackville Lounge/Biddy Mulligan'sWhile it’s still a small spot, the dark wood and low lighting add to the cosy feel, and the interior décor is very much ‘Easter Rising’ themed with images of the leaders around the pub, it doesn’t veer off into a theme park feel; indeed, given that the pub is steps away from the GPO, if the interior matched the exterior sign, it could easily career rapidly into the realm of the offensive. But – and here’s the thing – it does not! It’s quite nice! It includes portraits of many of the women involved – something especially notable if, like me, you’ve recently watched ‘Michael Collins’ for the first and only time, and wondered where the women were…but I digress.

The vibe was ‘make Gen X feel at home’ with some fun 80s tunes, and the service was excellent – the bartender was welcoming and we had some great chats. The beer lineup is nothing to write home about, with your standard Guinness-and-Heineken offering, but as a central spot to have a catchup with friends, it fits the bill. It was also largely empty, apart from our small group, but that may simply be a function of it being relatively early…or, perhaps, people are still weirded out by the sign outside.

But despite the name, my friends who live nearby keep going back, largely because they always receive the same warm welcome and have become semi-regulars in that accidental way that sometimes happens. They’ve been there when mariachi bands have turned up (and why not?), and have gone for the odd free Irish Coffee, which seems to be a specialty of the house, though as someone who neither drinks coffee nor consumes whipped cream (and prefers whiskey neat, when it comes to that), its appeal has never been clear to me – but to each their own.

There is, at present, no sign of the ‘house beers’ mentioned on the website (which does feel more ancient than the pub, it must be said), but at least we can debate whether ‘old’ modifies ‘ale’ or ‘ale house’ in this instance. I’d welcome a local brewery badging it as ‘Biddy’s’ if it meant a more interesting beer option, though I know not everyone is a fan of that approach, but again, the real surprise is that the atmosphere inside is really very nice. It is, after all, all about the people.

Shame about the name, but we can still just call it the Sackville Lounge, right?

Where: 16 Sackville Pl, North City, Dublin, D01 V0C7
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, Buses 9, 13, 14, 83, 122, 123, 10-ish minute walk
Food: Crisps
Sport: N/A
TVs: N/A
Music: 80s choons
Family-friendliness: Felt very adults-only, not in a bad way
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Mooney’s of Abbey Street, The Morris Bar, Kimchi Hophouse, Mema’s, The Big Romance, The Flowing Tide, The Palace Bar, Piper’s Corner, Bowes, JR Mahon's, The Oval Bar, and The Confession Box; also not too far from The Silver Penny if you must visit a ‘Spoons
Local sites of note: O’Connell Street, The Spire, The Portal, GPO, Custom House, Busáras, Connolly Station, Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Ha’Penny Bridge
Haunted: The exterior signage can certainly cause nightmares
Other notes: An easy spot to begin or end a pub crawl
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Doheny and Nesbitt

Outside Doheny & Nesbitt at nightWe kick off our 2025 pub-visiting endeavours with a stop off at Doheny and Nesbitt – a rare venture into this part of Dublin city centre.

Although Doheny and Nesbitt is very much a classic Victorian pub, the building actually began life as a Georgian house, built around 1790. But both ends of Baggot Street became more commercial in the 19th century, especially after Upper Baggot Street was further developed, and from the 1840s onward, this has been a pub. While the management and ownership has changed over time, the interior décor has ‘paused’ (to good effect) somewhere around 1885 – lots of dark, carved wood, advertising mirrors, ornate wallpapers and ceiling tiles.

Inside Doheny & NesbittIts more recent history and reputation are linked to its location and resulting clientele; as it’s so close to Leinster House (for the overseas visitors, that’s where the government ‘happens,’ and yes, that Georgian garden to the front of it is, indeed, a car park), politicians and civil servants have had a habit of dropping in over the years, giving the pub the nickname of ‘the Doheny and Nesbitt’s School of Economics,’ but on an average day, you’re more likely to see a group of tourists and (retired) civil servants; there can be more than a bit of the Old Man Pub vibe about the place.

A pint of Changing Times lager at Doheny & NesbittSome of that may also come from its beer selection; there’s the usual Guinness-and-macros lineup (plus Murphy’s), as well as two new taplines from Changing Times Brewery. I’ve debated whether or not this counts as a ‘craft’ or ‘independent’ offering, and since it seems to be replacing previous independent beer options in the pubs that have come together to serve Changing Times, rather than taking over another macro-beer tap…I’ll have to say the jury is still out. I did try the lager, and it was very much Not For Me – I would have preferred a Carlsberg clone to a Heineken one. But they do have a stout coming soon, and if they do begin to offer something a bit more compelling, I’m curious to see where it goes. For now, though, while it’s a beautiful pub with lovely service, it’s not the kind of place I personally stay for more than one drink, simply because the variety of beer options isn’t there for me. But if you’re looking for a Guinness or Murphy’s session, you are well-served in this part of town – and Doheny and Nesbitt makes a lovely backdrop if that’s what you’re after, and again, the staff are all top-notch.

But for us beer nerds, all roads lead to Underdog…I seem to always end up there after any visit to a city centre pub for just this reason, even though it’s not always the most convenient journey. But it’s always well worth the trip!

Where: 4-5 Baggot Street Lower, Dublin 2
Access from the city centre: 5-minute walk from Stephen’s Green
Food: There are breakfast/lunch/dinner and toasties menus
Sport: All the big sport options
TVs: Several throughout the building, including above the main bar
Music: Live trad & other tunes 7 nights a week
Family-friendliness: There is a kids’ menu with the usual goujons and similar options
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium-High – Toner’s, McGrattan's, Kennedy's, and O'Donoghue's are all very close, though I'd personally head further on up toward Cassidy’s, Bowes, The Oval or The Palace Bar
Local sites of note: Little Museum of Dublin, Huguenot Cemetery, St Stephen's Green, Merrion Square, Fitzwilliam Square, Royal Hibernian Academy, Oireachtas, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), National Gallery of Ireland…etc.
Haunted: A classic Victorian pub should have a good ghost story; perhaps a story-writing competition is needed
Other notes: An excellent whiskey selection
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Ginger Man

Outside The Ginger Man: Christmas decorations galoreIn the immortal words of Noddy Holder, ‘it’s CHRIST-MAS!’

Well, even if it isn’t quite, you’d be mistaken for thinking it is if you wander into The Ginger Man after Halloween. Christmas is this pub’s thing. Every year, since the early 1990s (my brain wanted me to type ‘1970s,’ but I am told that said decade was not, in fact, 30ish years ago), the Christmas display has grown larger and larger; ‘extra’ doesn’t begin to cover it. But it’s a good kind of extra, and there is a lot of competition – pubs in Dublin tend to have a high standard of holiday sparkle at this time of year.

Inside the Ginger Man: a red glow from the decorationsThere can be a bit of a dark side to going all in on Christmas, though – a pub might attract groups of Twelve Pubs of Christmas revellers. Now, I like a pub crawl. I like a bit of festive cheer. But as with anything of this nature, its growing popularity means that weekend pub visits during the holidays can be, well, messy. Some pubs bar these groups altogether (at least, in theory). And if you’re still wondering just what the Twelve Pubs of Christmas is and where it goes, Publin did an excellent look into the history of the tradition, which does seem to have a traceable pedigree back to the 1990s, and, depending on your interpretation, it either has no rules, beyond hitting up twelve pubs, or there are many rules – just ask Reddit (or don’t, up to you). And like so many modern-day folk practices, this leads to a range of approaches…some more annoying than others and most distinctly, well, blokey.

And there are some groups out there being (reasonably) responsible, taking it slowly, staying hydrated and being mindful of bar staff and other customers – great! Others, meanwhile, are like even-more-mobile stag parties in Christmas jumpers, and are best avoided. So, if such a group is looking to make The Ginger Man one of their stops, what will they find?

More Christmas decorations upstairs at The Ginger ManWell, as mentioned, they have the ideal backdrop for the social media documentation of their special day – there is no corner of the pub lacking holiday decorations. They can also be sensible by getting a bit of food, and while the beers on offer aren’t terribly adventurous – their own-brand offerings look to be from Franciscan Well, so more or less a small step up from your standard Heineken portfolio plus Guinness, but it does give Beamish stans their fave, too. But The Ginger Man is the kind of place that’s busy no matter what – its proximity to Trinity College means there are always plenty of students and tourists, plus a big after-work crowd. There are likely smaller numbers of JP Donleavy fans coming to see a pub named after his novel, as there are other pubs frequented by Donleavy (plus, of course, Brendan Behan) or mentioned in the book, but hey, you never know…

And even if you aren’t doing a Twelve Pubs of Christmas crawl, The Ginger Man is a spot worth ticking off this time of year – there’s such a range of great holiday decoration all around Dublin, so get out there and take some in.

Where: 39-40 Fenian St, Dublin 2, D02 KD51
Access from the city centre: Already there
Food: Pub grub: burgers and tourist faves
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: Various scattered around
Music: A bit more touristy than many
Family-friendliness: There is a children’s menu, but it can be crowded
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – Kennedy’s is nearby, or wander to the other side of Trinity College for O’Neill’s, Tapped, Bowes and more
Local sites of note: Trinity College, Merrion Square, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology), National Library of Ireland, National Gallery of Ireland
Haunted: No ghost stories mentioned – but could Brendan Behan be lurking?
Other notes: They do decorate for other holidays as well, just not quite so much
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Oval Bar

Outside The Oval

We like to believe it’s entirely possible for a pub to cater to tourists as well as locals without crossing the line into ‘tourist trap’ or, worse, theme park simulacrum. And while there are certainly pubs in, say, Temple Bar that we tend to avoid for failing that test (often miserably), it’s good to point out Dublin’s pubs that succeed in threading that needle. And so, to The Oval Bar.

With its lovely frontage (yes, we’ve gone straight into classic pub clichés) and beautiful Edwardian-ish interior, at first glance, it looks every bit what it says on the tin, as it were – a pub from 1822, that has served as a coaching stop, a hang-out for the newspaper set and the usual mention in Ulysses. However, the pub we see today is not a carefully-looked after relic of its extensive 1903 glow-up – it was entirely destroyed, along with most of its neighbours on Abbey and Sackville Streets (modern day Middle Abbey and O’Connell Streets), in the aftermath of the Easter Rising in 1916. It was rebuilt and ready to re-open in 1922…just in time for the start of the Civil War. Happily, though, it avoided damage on that occasion, and it’s been a spot for locals and tourists alike (more or less) ever since.

Busts of Irish independence leaders inside The OvalThe Oval’s most recent refurbishment was only about a year or so ago, and while it feels fresh and tidy, there’s still enough of a patina to give it a feeling of the history of the place; the décor and grillwork have an authentic feel. The pub is divided up into multiple sections, with more of a dining-room feel upstairs, but even within the relatively small main bar area, there are distinct areas to sit and relax, either alone or to spread out with friends. And while you can, of course, have a Guinness and all the other usual big brands, The Oval has two house beers, a pale ale and lager, that are brewed for this and other Chawke Pub Group venues such as Searsons by Dundalk Bay Brewery.

The atmosphere is friendly and very much ‘Irish pub’ – although it could easily tip into Oirish Pub territory with the kind of music you typically only hear in those sorts of establishments abroad, with a mix of The Dubliners and U2 – but it manages to stay on the right side of that line with some moderately deeper cuts, repertoire-wise, and there is a live trad session every Saturday. Now, The Oval does offer events catering specifically to tourists, but the fact that I’ve never run into one of these group activities suggests they do a nice job of keeping those relatively confined.

A pint of pale ale at The OvalIndeed, every time I’ve stopped it it’s been a good mix of people from all over, either enjoying a pint before heading on to a gig at The Academy or an after-work crowd catching up before catching buses. While it doesn’t have the selection of local independent beers that its neighbour Cassidy’s enjoys, it’s a much calmer atmosphere – more of a spot to linger with a book (something I’ve seen other people do there – not just me!) and a relaxed pint.

And there is the final way to tell how successfully a pub is managing to appeal to locals and overseas tourists alike – they do not charge Temple Bar prices.

Hear, hear!

Where: 78 Middle Abbey St, North City, Dublin 1, D01 RW24
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 13, 83, 122, 123, Luas Green Line or 8-ish minute walk
Food: Breakfast and all-day dining
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: A few around the pub, big ones come out for big events
Music: Very, very Irish, from trad to U2 (but perhaps lacking in more recent bands like Lankum)
Family-friendliness: No kids’ menu here, but plenty of options not so far away
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Palace Bar is a short walk, with Mooney’s, Cassidy’s, JR Mahon’sBowe’s, Piper's Corner, The Flowing Tide and many more are nearby on both sides of the river
Local sites of note: The Academy, The Spire, Jervis Shopping Centre, Trinity College, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Ha’Penny Bridge, GPO, Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre
Haunted: No ghost stories, though plenty of history
Other notes: As with The Palace Bar, an extensive whiskey selection
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Grogan’s

Toasties and pints at Grogan'sThis week, we are journeying to one of those ‘needs no introduction’ pubs that’s simply part of the fabric here in Dublin, and sometimes, you just need a pint and a toastie. And so, to Grogan’s.

While the cash-only policy is, thankfully, gone, everything else is old-school in the right way. The slightly scuffed, but art-covered walls, the jumbled stools and tables, the mix of regulars and tourists and the just-right toasties that go perfectly with your pint are all present and accounted for. While Grogan’s – more correctly, Grogan’s Castle Lounge – has been a pub since 1899, the present incarnation has been going strong since the 1970s, when it became a renowned literary haunt for the likes of Patrick Kavanagh and Flann O'Brien. And while its old-school cred is very much deserved, it’s a progressive sort of old-school: Grogan’s was one of the first pubs in Dublin that served women without a fuss – and if you haven’t picked up Ali Dunworth’s recent book, A Compendium of Irish Pints, well…you should! It’s a fascinating look at the many nuances of ‘pints’ here in Ireland, and the relevant section here on how Grogan’s led the way on ‘allowing’ women to drink pints (rather than half-pints, or ‘glasses’ as they are more usually known here) IN FULL VIEW OF MALE CUSTOMERS…it was a whole thing! We also had Ali on the Beer Ladies Podcast in the season we just wrapped up, so do give a listen.

The colourful lightbox with regulars' faces on the wall at Grogan'sAnd, speaking of podcasts, there’s an entire episode of Three Castles Burning dedicated to Grogan’s, and it is very much worth your time; Donal Fallon’s always-excellent podcast is required listening for anyone visiting or living in Dublin, and it’s a fascinating story. You know when a pub has generated this much affection over the years, there’s likely a reason for it.

And while I personally tend to go to quieter pubs most of the time, it’s hard to beat Grogan’s for people-watching (inside or outside), and it’s an ideal place to meet someone as it’s so central. The toastie (with or without ham – your choice) is a perfect quick bite, and it’s especially welcome in this part of town, where the options are pricier/larger sit-down meals or the odd packet of crisps. Beer-wise, there’s obviously plenty of Guinness on offer (both full-fat and 0.0), plus O’Hara’s as a local craft choice, and there is also Beamish, Murphy’s and the lesser-spotted draught Harp (at least here in Dublin – it’s much more common in Belfast), along with the usual macro suspects.

While it’s rare to find any empty seats, Grogran’s is also the kind of pub where if you simply wait a bit, something may open up, or you may be invited to join an existing party and have a chat. You may as well…

Where: 15 William St S, Dublin 2, D02 H336
Access from the city centre: You are very central
Food: Toasties
Sport: Only verbal gymnastics
TVs: No
Music: Not here
Family-friendliness: You do see kids brought in as tourists, but it’s awfully crowded for them; still, toasties!
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Long Hall, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Peter's Pub, Sinnot's Bar and Bar Rua are all within stumbling distance, with many more beyond
Local sites of note: George’s Street Arcade, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty, Craft Central (IYKYK)
Haunted: No well-known stories, but surely, at least a few old regulars would like to return…
Other notes: Grogan’s is open from 10.30 am, so you can always beat the crowds with a mid-morning tea
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Caribou

A glass of beer, a candle and a cocktail menu at Caribou

After a bit of an unplanned break, we are back, and this week, we are heading into the city centre to check out Caribou – the new bar from the Animal Collective folk that has recently opened in the former P Mac’s spot. The recent spate of Galway Bay pub closures/rebrandings, including Against the Grain (RIP) and BRÚ House Fairview (now The Strand House) has not boded well for Dublin-based craft beer fans; most of the re-opened pubs have had zero or, at best, one craft tap remaining; the shift from The Beer Market to The Christchurch Inn is – so far – the only relaunch bucking that apparent trend.

While P Mac’s was not part of the Galway Bay family – its sister pubs include Cassidys and Blackbird (the other P Mac’s in Dundrum closed a bit ago), and the family resemblance was best seen through the dark spaces and drippy, red candles – it was always a spot with a nice selection of Irish craft beer, and when its closured was announced, I know I was not the only person concerned that it might be relaunched as a Fake Oirish Pub, with all macro beer and diddly-eye music for tourists, especially given its location, a short walk from St Stephen’s Green. Fortunately for us beer nerds, Caribou has us covered, with a nice selection of Irish craft beer, plus some international choices – and there are plenty of standard offerings for The Normals, too, as well as some very interesting cocktails. There is also an impressive array of alcohol-free cans and mocktails that is worth noting.

The bar at CaribouThis is no surprise, though, as the other pubs in the group have always supported independent beer; we’ve covered Bonobo before (though wouldn’t it be improved by more housing nearby, instead of a vacant site? Well, that’s another story we won’t get into here), and Impala in Cork is lovely. I have yet to make it to Kodiak in Rathmines, but I had been past the OG Caribou in Galway and knew they had a good selection as well. Rather than find a new animal, the Caribou name has been transplanted to Dublin after the closure of the Galway spot, and very pleasant it is, too.

For anyone familiar with P Mac’s and its rather cavernous feel (not a bad thing, by my reckoning), the new look and feel at Caribou is light and airy, yet in discussions with the excellent staff, they said that not much had been done to the place, structurally. The removal of a snug near the front has opened up some windows that I would never have noticed before, and the new colour palette – lots of white, faded blues and mid-century modern wood – gives it an entirely different feel. And while the old red candles are gone, they have been replaced with white pillar candles – perhaps a nod to the old space? I am obliged to credit my fellow Beer Lady Katie Malone with this idea – and it’s a good one!

In the back at Caribou - couch, table and lamp
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All told, it’s not terribly dissimilar to Bonobo in ambiance, and there are still some cosier spots toward the back for a more relaxed conversation – the absence of the front snug is no cause for concern, and I say this as someone who loves a good snug. I suspect it’s a trickier balance to get right than it might appear at first glance – there’s a difference between simply throwing together some charity shop furniture and hoping it gives off hipster vibes, versus having a more intentionally-designed space and aesthetic. There is another pub I won’t mention by name that seems to have attempted a similar ‘vibe’ and missed the mark; it ends up feeling rather impersonal and slightly chaotic (though the less-than-stellar service hasn’t helped with that). A lot of the warmth and welcome at Caribou does come from the staff, so they’ve done well in that regard, and my suspicion is that this is what cements that feel of the place. Even with a brand-new (brand-new retro?) facelift, it feels authentic in a way that some pubs and bars attempting to play in this space simply do not.

And given Caribou’s location, just around the corner from St Stephen’s News – Craft Central for Those In The Know – there’s no excuse not to have some great craft beer options, and a well-trained staff who know their stuff, so it’s great to see that tradition continue in this location. The red candles may have gone, and I did very much enjoy them, but I can still go to Cassidys for that vibe, but the new chilled-out feel that Caribou brings is most welcome in this part of Dublin.

Where: Caribou, 30 Stephen Street Lower, Dublin 2, D02 XY61
Access from the city centre: You are in it
Food: Now a new food menu – steak frites!
Sport: Less sport, more chat
TVs: No obvious sign
Music: Bit of jazz, bit of indie
Family-friendliness: A more grown-up (or, at least, Elder Gen Z+) vibe
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Hairy Lemon, Bar Rua, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Peter’s Pub, Sinnot’s Bar and more are all within a brief stroll – and there are many more beyond
Local sites of note: St Stephen’s Green, Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central (absolutely a landmark for the beer nerds), Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade
Haunted: There was that definitely-real incident with the hot dog ghost
Other notes: An ideal spot for a book and a pint
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Toner’s

Outside Toner's PubDespite its Viking-era foundations, Dublin rarely feels like an ‘old’ city by European standards – something we can, in large part, blame on the Wide Streets Commission, which resulted in the demolition of much of medieval Dublin in the 18th century. However, the city the Commission members desired can very much be seen in the part of Baggot street we are visiting this week as we look at Toner’s Pub. While perhaps best known as a literary pub (yes, another one – we do have a fair few), it’s also practically the Platonic ideal of a Dublin pub: a Georgian building, a past as a grocer and tea merchant, lots of dark wood, Guinness and a surprising number of snugs, nooks and crannies.

Inside Toner's PubBuilt as a house in 1734, Toner’s has been continuously operated as a pub since 1818, and to quote the National Built Heritage Service, ‘[t]he remarkably intact exterior greatly contributes to the historic streetscape in the centre of the south Georgian core.’ On my recent visit, that history was very much on display, as Toner’s is the first Pub Museum, an initiative sponsored by Heineken, and we did a bit of poking around to see how it all works (and, full disclosure, to get a free Heineken 0.0, which regular readers know is not my go-to, but it was a nicely-organised event). In brief, the project lets you scan a QR code at the front of the pub and then to investigate objects and locations throughout the rest of the pub – that may be a voiceover, a bit of music or other information about the item in question. It did reveal some fabulous anecdotes about former visitors, from WB Yeats to David Bowie, though I imagine many visitors just want to sit with a pint and soak up the history more organically. That said, it’s not always easy to find out those little historical snippets that the bartender or regulars may just ‘know,’ so it is very handy for tourists (or history nerds like me). Time will tell how scalable it is to other pubs, but I am all for doing a better job of documenting (and funding) pub history.

Front snug at Toner'sAnd Toner’s does have an interesting history; it’s alleged to be the only pub Yeats ever went to, and his brief? occasional? presence in the front snug seems to be one of the connections that gets Toner’s onto the list of Dublin’s haunted pubs – again, something I’d like to see grow, at least from a folklore-gathering perspective, although alas, his magickal duel with Aleister Crowley took place in London. But Yeats was not the only Hermetic Order of the Golden Dawn member to stop in at Toner’s – Bram Stoker was a more frequent guest, as he lived just a short walk away.

But what of the pub itself? First off, it’s bigger on the inside (no, really) – the front bar, while picturesque, is just the beginning. It winds around inside, with quite different-feeling sections upstairs and downstairs, but the enormous beer garden is one of the largest in Dublin – and it’s even heated. There are covered booths, some with laptop or phone charge points, as well as other seating options, so a rainy day need not rule out a bit of fresh air. Beer-wise, it’s very much a Heineken-plus-Guinness shop – the only ‘crafty‘ option is Five Lamps lager, but there is now a Murphy’s tap; the demise of Islands Edge has cleared the way for its return around town. Although I’d personally prefer at least one local independent option, you do have two (actual) stout options.

Only a tiny portion of the beer garden

While it’s true I rarely find myself in this part of town, I did make a mental note that the beer garden is going to be lovely once it warms up a bit more…perhaps an ideal spot to take out-of-town guests who want to see a ‘real Irish pub’ in the middle of their museum visits; stopping in at Toner’s can count in both columns.

Where: James Toner’s, 139 Baggot Street Lower, Dublin 2
Access from the city centre: 5-minute walk from St Stephen’s Green
Food: Crisps/peanuts or bring in a pizza from Cirillo's next door
Sport: Can have quite a rugby crowd, but big events in general tend to be shown
TVs: One above the main bar, a few elsewhere here and there
Music: Trad sessions and the odd ‘secret’ gig for the likes of Dermot Kennedy and Shaggy (indeed!) – keep an eye on the socials
Family-friendliness: More of a grownup spot, but the beer garden does have plenty of space if you’re getting pizza
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium-High – McGrattan’s, Kennedy’s, O’Donoghue’s and Doheny & Nesbitt are all very close, though I’d personally head further on up toward Cassidys, Bowes or The Palace Bar
Haunted: Did Bram Stoker bring any kind of attached elemental from Marsh’s Library when he drank here? Let’s say yes!
Local sites of note: Little Museum of Dublin, Huguenot Cemetery, St Stephen’s Green, Merrion Square, Fitzwilliam Square, Royal Hibernian Academy, Oireachtas, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), National Gallery of Ireland…etc.
Other notes: If you do venture outside, you will not be troubled by seagulls.
Socials: Facebook, Former Twitter, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen

Outside O'Neill's: sign & clockAs tourist season seems more or less nearly in full swing, we’re sticking with Dublin city centre this week and O’Neill’s Pub and Kitchen – a tourist-friendly but also authentic pub that caters to a range of tastes and preferences – and one that’s large enough to offer a different experience depending on where you are in the pub (and just how crowded it is on the day or evening).

The snug downstairs at O'Neill'sI recently had the unpleasant experience of stopping in a pub I’d never tried, and which shall remain nameless here, that was so aggressively diddley-eye that I had to flee after a single quick pint – the Clancy Brothers on a loop, too loud; a complete lack of non-Guinness options, the various tin signs and old farm equipment on the wall just that little bit too much like an Oirsih Pub of the sort you find anywhere in the world, and that doesn’t need to exist in the middle of Dublin. When I asked the bartender if there were any local craft options, she claimed not to know what that meant. Now, that in itself isn’t a dealbreaker, there are some excellent Guinness-only pubs that are well worth a visit – The Gravediggers and The Hut immediately come to mind – but add in the twee décor, the music (and I love good trad…just not the same four or five particular bits that get played endlessly to tourists) and the Americans wearing Peaky Blinders hats, and it was a big nope.

Barrels on the way up the stairsHappily, O’Neill’s is nothing like this, and visiting it not long after The Pub to Remain Nameless made its positive features stand out all the more. Yes, there are trad sessions – good ones are always welcome – but the usual background music is quiet enough to chat, not painfully loud. Yes, there are various old photos and signs, even some barrels as you head upstairs, but they seem like a more natural accumulation over the past 150-200 years, rather than having come from a warehouse as part of a kit. The ground floor is something of a warren (in the best possible way), with the bar serving several distinct spaces, including a pleasant snug by one of the doors. There is a good variety in terms of local craft options on tap (again, we’ll let the decorative hand pulls set high up on a shelf slide – there’s no cask here), but it’s always a good idea to have a backup choice selected; in my experience, the first choice is nearly always the one that just kicked. Happily, though, there are some good options (Lineman, Bullhouse, Whiplash and Trouble, to name a few independent Irish breweries showcased on my most recent visit, with Third Barrel upstairs), so it’s in no way a hardship.

Upstairs near Whiskey CornerAnd speaking of ‘upstairs,’ there’s a nice ‘Whiskey Corner,’ all red leather and dark wood, though of course you’re welcome to drink anything you’d like (and the whiskey selection is indeed a very good one). It can be quieter up here (not necessarily on big game days, of course), especially during the afternoon, and it can make a pleasant spot on your literary pub crawl, given its Seamus Heaney connections, among quite a few others. But again, there is a good variety of seating, with many little nooks and snugs, so it’s also a nice escape from Grafton Street shopping, just outside.

So, while my more usual MO is to hit up one of my locals before heading into town proper, my most recent visit to O’Neill’s was a good reminder that there are very nice spots right in Dublin city centre as well – they are not all tourist nightmares, even when you are absolutely in the middle of everything. Good times are possible!

Where: O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen, 2 Suffolk St, Dublin 2, D02 KX03
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: What I would term ‘tourist pub fare’ – Irish stew, soups, sandwiches, toasties and then burgers, etc.
Sport: Various screens for various sports – football, GAA, horse racing, etc
TVs: See ‘sport’
Music: Quiet enough to have a conversation; also trad events
Family-friendliness: Plenty of food options if it’s not late/too crowded
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Bowes, Cassidys, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon’s, The Oval, Porterhouse Temple Bar, Tapped and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Haunted: With its literary cred, a ghost would be a big plus, but no obvious stories
Local sites of note: Grafton Street, Trinity College, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Irish Whiskey Museum…you are central
Other notes: Not to be confused with O’Neill’s Victorian Pub & Townhouse on Pearse Street
Socials: Nothing updated for quite a few years

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Bowes

Bowes stained glass windowI don’t have the largest list of city centre Dublin pubs to recommend (yet!), simply because I’m not in the more touristy parts of town very often, but one pub in this area I do quite enjoy is Bowes. It really does tick all of the boxes for a Victorian pub out of central casting – dark interior, stained glass, wood panelling and slightly worn around the edges. The exact parameters of those edges have been under discussion for some time, as there have been numerous attempts to get permission to expand into the sadly-derelict Irish Yeast Company building abutting the pub, but there doesn’t seem to be a clear path for or against that happening at the moment.

The bar at BowesBut as of this writing, Bowes seems to be doing just fine as-is: in addition to the usual well-kept Guinness, there’s always an excellent whiskey selection, rivalling that of The Palace Bar, and a good variety of local craft beer – Kinnegar, O’Hara’s, Rye River – plus some useful non-alcoholic options. One speculates that this kind of non-whiskey variety was unimaginable when Bowes was a regular hangout for Irish Times journalists in decades past, but it does suit its current mix of Trinity College students, tourists and long-time regulars; on my visits, I’ve always found a wide range of ages, accents, genders, backgrounds and interests, all equally welcome.It’s not the kind of pub I usually go to in my own neighbourhood, largely because I’m more often out and about with family in those situations, but it’s an ideal spot for a real ‘pubby’ pub when meeting up with other grownup friends and kicking back with a pint or two.

Pints of Rye River at BowesFor me, Bowes combines the best features of Old Man Pubs – decor, vibe and unpretentiousness – with what I also expect on a good afternoon or evening out: local beer and whiskey, a more diverse crowd and a generally sound atmosphere. If someone could just point me to a ghost story (or create one), it would have everything…

Where: Bowes Lounge Bar, 31 Fleet St, Dublin 2, D02 DF77
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: I’ve only ever seen crisps consumed, but the internet claims there are other snacks
Sport: Not sporty
TVs: Possibly an old one somewhere, but never seems to be on
Music: Fairly MOR, but never too loud; I’ve also been when it has been music-free
Family-friendliness: Leave the kids at home for this one
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Doyle’s is next door, but O’Neill’s, Cassidys, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon’s, The Oval Bar, Porterhouse Temple Bar, Tapped and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Haunted: It certainly looks and feels like it should be haunted
Local sites of note: Trinity College, Book of Kells, Grafton Street, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Irish Whiskey Museum…you are as central as can be
Other notes: Handy coat/bag hooks, which more pubs should have
Socials: None seem active

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Stag’s Head

Outside The Stag's HeadLook! We’ve gone south of the river! It does sometimes happen, if the right opportunity presents itself. And so, to The Stag’s Head.

While I had been to the pub at some point in the dim and distant past, long before I moved here, it was very much as a tourist. And while it does still feel a bit like a ‘tourist’ bar, with its well-preserved Victorian interior (see also The Long Hall, The Hut, The Palace Bar) and Temple Bar-adjacent location, there is some genuine local colour as well. That’s what brought me in most recently: a friend’s birthday party, and she chose the location because it has a very niche place in Irish music history: it is (so the story goes) where Neil Hannon and Thomas Walsh dreamt up The Duckworth-Lewis Method – birthing the world’s finest cricket pop over (more than) a few pints. As an aside, the two have a new song out under Walsh’s aegis – check it out!

Stag's Head mosaicBut back to the pub itself: while the ground floor hosts the main bar and generous snug, there are smaller spots to sit with a pint or a few friends, or even to host a corporate or life event – indeed, before we settled into the upstairs lounge, with its view over the alleyway, a wedding was in the process of winding down. The beer selection is mostly the usual suspects – a well-poured Guinness and the odd Five Lamps ‘crafty’ option – so not necessarily my first choice, but it’s worth noting that for a city centre Guinness, it’s not a bad price, and certainly cheaper than many (likely most) in the immediate vicinity.

A pint in the upstairs barIt does feel a bit less welcoming than the places I more typically frequent, with a bit of a wait to be served, even without a queue, but some of that may be that the staff had already slogged through a wedding, and it was by that point a Friday night, so very understandable, especially in this part of town. But it is a beautifully-maintained spot, and there are times when simply relaxing with friends over a Guinness is called for.

The parting glass - a blurry photo of the main barAnd as a folklore nerd, I’m curious to see what one of their Folklore & Fairies evenings is all about, though I suspect it would be full of the louder spectrum of The People From Where I Came From, and I tend to avoid that crowd – still, perhaps something to try with a few friends rounded up in advance…if more local craft beer options were on offer, I’d be in!

Where: The Stag’s Head, 1 Dame Ct, Dublin, D02 TW84
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Toasties, oysters, pub grub
Sport: All sorts on the televisions
TVs: TVs in the main bar
Music: Live trad bands Fridays & Saturdays; stereo soundtrack was ‘wedding favourites’ on my visit
Family-friendliness: Likely depends on the time of day
Pub-crawl-ability: High – very short walk to The Oak/The Beer Temple, O’Neill’s, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, Arthur’s, Dudley’s, Love Tempo, The Brazen Head, The Porterhouse and all of Temple Bar, if you hate your money
Local sites of note: Olympia Theatre, Dublin Castle, Dublin City Hall, Chester Beatty Library, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublinia
Haunted: Surely a quality candidate for ghosts, if ghosts like dark wood and leather
Other notes: Extensive whiskey selection
Socials: Instagram