I recently read Back to the Local, Maurice Gorham’s recently-republished guide to London pubs, initially written just after the Second World War. While there is much in the book that is fascinating to the beer history nerd, from drinks terminology to changing pub names and elegies for those lost in the Blitz, Gorham’s chronicling of the various ‘Irish houses’ was, naturally, of special interest.
An Irish journalist and, later, broadcaster with the BBC, Gorham had been educated in the UK and lived in London until the late 1940s, when he returned to Dublin and served as the Director of RTÉ Radio, though it’s clear from his writing that he had something of an avocation for capturing pubs in print. Throughout Back to the Local, he mentions his favourite Mooney’s establishments in London, and having recently spent a while staring at Mooney’s of Abbey Street while waiting for the Luas to appear, I was keen to know more about Mooney’s pubs here in Dublin, as well as their once-thriving London counterparts.
Without diving into a full history of JG Mooney and Company, we’ll briefly note that the business was formed in 1888 as a wine and spirits merchant, and they owned a string of pubs in Dublin and London, including some more recognizable under their current names, such as The Boh and Bruxelles. While the OG Mooney organization dissolved in 2022, the name is back on Mooney’s of Abbey Street so, yes, we are finally getting to this week’s pub.
While the historic Mooney’s of Abbey Street was at 1 Abbey Street (indeed, the signage is still visible on the façade), we’re now just a few doors down at 4 Abbey Street, and there’s been a very recent glow-up to the interior. We’re leaning in to ‘traditional pub’ here, but it’s well-executed, with dark wood, deep colours and a bit of slightly-spurious history here and there, but it’s all quite pleasant, with a number of snugs and booths.
The stained glass toward the back remains from its previous incarnation as Madigan’s, with the name-change happening in 2020. There is also the welcome sight of not just one, but two Rye River taps, so there are options for those seeking something beyond the Diageo or Heineken standard-issue pints (plus the lesser-spotted Kilkenny and Harp). On my visit, there was quite a lot of tourist foot traffic – it does seem there is almost always a coach parked outside, either taking on or disgorging a sizable group – but it was never overwhelming, and the small afternoon crowd was a good mix of locals and visitors of all ages and descriptions.
Even if it’s not, strictly speaking, the same Mooney’s that once had a relatively-expansive portfolio of pubs around the city (or, more accurately, cities), it’s no bad thing to see a nod to a historic name in a newer establishment. The current décor may seem a little bit staged as it’s just been tidied up, but, given time, it should gain a bit more of a patina; it does come by it honestly. Indeed, it’s a fine addition to this part of Abbey Street which can otherwise veer somewhat wildly between very staid and corporate and too run down for its own good – a lively, welcoming pub offers a useful anchor.
And if you have not picked up a copy of Back to the Local, well – you should get on that, too…
Where: 4 Abbey Street Lower, North City, Dublin, D01 V0Y3
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, Buses 9, 13, 14, 83, 122, 123, 8-ish minute walk
Food: New menu as of September ’24, including breakfast & pub grub
Sport: Various sporting options shown
TVs: New TVs in the main bar
Music: Typically a more MOR sound…but improved with some New Order
Family-friendliness: Plenty of children’s food options
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Flowing Tide, The Palace Bar, Piper's Corner, Bowes, JR Mahon’s, The Oval Bar, Mulligan's and The Confession Box; also not too far from The Silver Penny if you need a ‘Spoons
Local sites of note: Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre, The Spire, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, GPO, Ha'Penny Bridge, Trinity College
Haunted: Thankfully, no longer haunted by the previous furniture
Other notes: Much-improved bathrooms, too
Socials: Instagram, Facebook
Dublin does not, on the whole, have the kind of grand railway station pubs and bars that you might find in the UK or Germany, but it seems 
It’s a bit of a funny spot, The Galway Hooker; the patio outside overlooks the Luas tracks, giving it more of a ‘commuter’ vs ‘real trip’ vibe, but it does afford a nice view of Heuston’s exterior, which is really rather nice by Irish train station standards; it can be a bit too easy to overlook when you’re in a hurry to catch a train. Inside, though, there are multiple options for people-watching, though it’s not as easy as it might be for trainspotting. The entrance from the station concourse only suggests a somewhat-unpromising buffet/carvery experience, but if you press on into the pub interior, a more impressive spectacle awaits.
The colour scheme is dictated by the red-brown (Burnt Sienna?) sails of the model 
And yet, while some of those elements may not be what tourists envision when they think ‘Irish pub,’ Mema’s feels very much part of the fabric of the neighbourhood. One of the reasons I especially enjoy stopping in – beyond the comfortable seating options – is their support for independent Irish beer. There is always Ambush on from Trouble, and usually something from Rye River as well, plus a few other wild cards. The same can be said for their championing smaller Irish distillers, and some of the cocktails are a great way to showcase those producers (perhaps not, it must be said, in the ‘tower’ format, but in your standard-sized cocktail, absolutely).
There’s also what sometimes feels like a secret beer garden, which is a welcome respite on Parnell Street, and Mema’s is definitely one of those pubs that seems, TARDIS-like, to be bigger on the inside. In addition, it’s a handy spot for us Northside folk to meet friends, with the Luas just outside. And speaking of meeting friends, it’s an ideal spot for a group hang (if you make a reservation, obviously – don’t be That Group that shows up with 15 people and no booking) – there are many seating options, and something for nearly every taste.
What, you might ask, is an early house? If you’re not a Dublin local, this may not be a familiar phrase, but this week, we’re heading to one of the city’s very few remaining such establishments – 
I’ve only done the (relatively) early-morning visit there a few times, and in both cases, it was For Science – once to scope out the best spot to record 
And it is the Guinness most seem to be coming for; there aren’t any craft options, but they have added both 0.0 and the Heineken 0.0 of late, so there are alcohol-free options for those who want to have that morning pint, but also a reasonably productive day. Slattery’s has a classic Irish pub interior, with lots of dark wood and deep colours, some snugs and various nooks and crannies, as well as tributes to local historical and musical figures throughout the bar. And it does draw both that curious tourist and a steady local crowd, so it’s always a lively mix.
But back to the pub itself: The Bull & Castle is very much ‘sleek steakhouse with taxidermy and statuary’ downstairs, and if you’re simply looking for the bar, you need to head up the stairs. But before you do, it’s worth noting that the steak is top-notch; it’s part of the FX Buckley family, and if you are a meat-eater who hasn’t had their steak, well…you should probably get on that, whether at The Bull & Castle or one of their other locations around Dublin. Upstairs, there is also excellent food, but also a more pub-like atmosphere. There are a variety of local craft beer options: on my most recent visit, some Trouble, lots of O’Hara’s choices (also in bottles downstairs), including the house pale ale, The White Hag and others, plus a wider selection of ciders than you typically find in most places around town. It can feel a bit hidden, since you don't enter into the main bar right from the street as in so many other pubs, but that can add to the charm as well.
And, of course, there’s the aforementioned literary connection and ghost story. Poet 
This is no surprise, though, as the other pubs in the group have always supported independent beer; we’ve covered 
From the exterior, 
On a recent Saturday evening, I found people making the most of the remaining visit from the sun in the beer garden, which comes complete with a DJ booth and Oasis-v-Blur cigarette disposal – a reference that here in Ireland is both a GenX comfort blanket and general Father Ted reference that even the younger set who don’t recall the 1990s will recognize – they know all about 
All told, it would be a challenge to find a more inclusive, welcoming spot, and the bao buns are absolutely fantastic. 
A mid-October 2024 update:
As tourist season seems more or less nearly in full swing, we’re sticking with Dublin city centre this week and O’Neill’s Pub and Kitchen – a tourist-friendly but also authentic pub that caters to a range of tastes and preferences – and one that’s large enough to offer a different experience depending on where you are in the pub (and just how crowded it is on the day or evening).
I recently had the unpleasant experience of stopping in a pub I’d never tried, and which shall remain nameless here, that was so aggressively 
Happily, O’Neill’s is nothing like this, and visiting it not long after The Pub to Remain Nameless made its positive features stand out all the more. Yes, there are trad sessions – good ones are always welcome – but the usual background music is quiet enough to chat, not painfully loud. Yes, there are various old photos and signs, even some barrels as you head upstairs, but they seem like a more natural accumulation over 
And speaking of ‘upstairs,’ there’s a nice ‘Whiskey Corner,’ all red leather and dark wood, though of course you’re welcome to drink anything you’d like (and the whiskey selection is indeed a very good one). It can be quieter up here (not necessarily on big game days, of course), especially during the afternoon, and it can make a pleasant spot on your literary pub crawl, given its 
Bill Clinton wuz here. And you’re not likely to forget it, as he seems to be on every wall in Fagan’s, somewhere.
