Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Molly’s Bar

Outside Molly's Bar: a blue exteriorIt’s been a minute since we’ve been to an entirely new pub, so it was good fun to make it in to Molly’s Bar in its first weekend of operation. After the spate of Galway Bay pub sell-offs over the past year, with very hit and miss results in their new incarnations, it was something of a surprise to see a new location popping up here in Dublin. Without getting into the complicated machinations behind the scenes in terms of the ownership structure of the various different Galway Bay pubs, it seems that things are sorted out in some fashion, so this is good news.

A pint and a candle at Molly's BarWhile much of The Liberties is blessed with Georgian and Victorian architecture, the building housing Molly’s Bar is relatively new, and not as characterful as many of its neighbours. The exterior is giving ‘breezeblock TARDIS’ in its current deep blue – quite a change from the bright pink everywhere when this was drag bar Doll Society, now decamped (well, ‘relocated’ is more apt here) to a spot inside Hyde, nearer Grafton Street. But inside, while it still has a bit of ‘new paint smell,’ the darker greens and woody tones are cosy, and the candles give a welcoming glow.

A charcuterie board at Molly's BarThe best news for beer fans is that unlike several of the ex-Galway Bay pubs, we have their core lineup, and there will be other guest beers as well in the future. But you can also bring your Guinness nerds and other macro-beer friends here – they are by no means left out, and there are cocktails as well. On our visit, everything was lovely and fresh (as you might expect) – the Lush and Full Sail were both in excellent form. Food, too, was more varied than the standard menu, or else it’s changed again – either way, the addition of the charcuterie board was most welcome, and the halloumi fries are as good as ever.

It’s still early days, so they are still getting some final touches in place, but the staff are friendly and attentive, and keen to hear feedback; it’s a promising start indeed.

Where: 101 Francis St, The Liberties, Dublin 8, D08 Y70F
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 13, 16, 27, 49, 54A, 68, 77A, 83, 122, 123, 151, 17-ish minute walk
Food: Galway Bay menu with charcuterie board
Sport: Not typical in Galway Bay joints
TVs: No TVs
Music: Not as fabulous as in the Doll Society days, but good fun
Family-friendliness: Always easy to bring a kid to a Galway Bay pub
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Jackie’s, The Liberty Belle, Dudley’s, Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, Swift, Arthur's, The Christchurch Inn, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle…the list goes on
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Teeling’s Distillery, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen's Church
Haunted: The old pink paint can’t be completely hidden in the toilets…there’s probably glitter, too
Other notes: There is a covered outdoor/smoking section hidden away if you keep poking around
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Ginger Man

Outside The Ginger Man: Christmas decorations galoreIn the immortal words of Noddy Holder, ‘it’s CHRIST-MAS!’

Well, even if it isn’t quite, you’d be mistaken for thinking it is if you wander into The Ginger Man after Halloween. Christmas is this pub’s thing. Every year, since the early 1990s (my brain wanted me to type ‘1970s,’ but I am told that said decade was not, in fact, 30ish years ago), the Christmas display has grown larger and larger; ‘extra’ doesn’t begin to cover it. But it’s a good kind of extra, and there is a lot of competition – pubs in Dublin tend to have a high standard of holiday sparkle at this time of year.

Inside the Ginger Man: a red glow from the decorationsThere can be a bit of a dark side to going all in on Christmas, though – a pub might attract groups of Twelve Pubs of Christmas revellers. Now, I like a pub crawl. I like a bit of festive cheer. But as with anything of this nature, its growing popularity means that weekend pub visits during the holidays can be, well, messy. Some pubs bar these groups altogether (at least, in theory). And if you’re still wondering just what the Twelve Pubs of Christmas is and where it goes, Publin did an excellent look into the history of the tradition, which does seem to have a traceable pedigree back to the 1990s, and, depending on your interpretation, it either has no rules, beyond hitting up twelve pubs, or there are many rules – just ask Reddit (or don’t, up to you). And like so many modern-day folk practices, this leads to a range of approaches…some more annoying than others and most distinctly, well, blokey.

And there are some groups out there being (reasonably) responsible, taking it slowly, staying hydrated and being mindful of bar staff and other customers – great! Others, meanwhile, are like even-more-mobile stag parties in Christmas jumpers, and are best avoided. So, if such a group is looking to make The Ginger Man one of their stops, what will they find?

More Christmas decorations upstairs at The Ginger ManWell, as mentioned, they have the ideal backdrop for the social media documentation of their special day – there is no corner of the pub lacking holiday decorations. They can also be sensible by getting a bit of food, and while the beers on offer aren’t terribly adventurous – their own-brand offerings look to be from Franciscan Well, so more or less a small step up from your standard Heineken portfolio plus Guinness, but it does give Beamish stans their fave, too. But The Ginger Man is the kind of place that’s busy no matter what – its proximity to Trinity College means there are always plenty of students and tourists, plus a big after-work crowd. There are likely smaller numbers of JP Donleavy fans coming to see a pub named after his novel, as there are other pubs frequented by Donleavy (plus, of course, Brendan Behan) or mentioned in the book, but hey, you never know…

And even if you aren’t doing a Twelve Pubs of Christmas crawl, The Ginger Man is a spot worth ticking off this time of year – there’s such a range of great holiday decoration all around Dublin, so get out there and take some in.

Where: 39-40 Fenian St, Dublin 2, D02 KD51
Access from the city centre: Already there
Food: Pub grub: burgers and tourist faves
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: Various scattered around
Music: A bit more touristy than many
Family-friendliness: There is a children’s menu, but it can be crowded
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – Kennedy’s is nearby, or wander to the other side of Trinity College for O’Neill’s, Tapped, Bowes and more
Local sites of note: Trinity College, Merrion Square, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology), National Library of Ireland, National Gallery of Ireland
Haunted: No ghost stories mentioned – but could Brendan Behan be lurking?
Other notes: They do decorate for other holidays as well, just not quite so much
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Circular

Outside The Circular

While we're deep into Spooky Season, this week's pub, The Circular, doesn't have any good ghost stories of its own – as far as I've discovered – but it is a very quick stroll from Rialto Bridge, which has a number of folkloric associations. Although it's more properly called Harcourt Bridge, its nickname is one of long association: the first stone bridge was built here over the Grand Canal in 1795, replacing an earlier wooden structure, and its resemblance to Venice's Ponte Di Rialto gave the bridge, as well as the surrounding area, its better-known name. There are stories of a Black Shuck-type dog stalking the underside of the bridge, with some tales more specifically citing the devil himself appearing as a black dog in the area.

Inside The Other Hand Bar at The CircularIndeed, devilish attachments (literally) continued with a stone ‘devil' head formerly being affixed to the bridge – though whether the stories or the sculpture came first is open to investigation. In any case, the ‘devil' has been moved further up the former canal path, where he's now looking out over The Liberties, although he's still tied into beer history there; Guinness was one of the heaviest users of the Grand Canal in its heyday.

But let's walk back along the South Circular Road to The Circular; it's an interesting building in its own right, originally built as a house, it became a grocer's shop and – of course – a pub, over the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It's got various spaces with their own characters, and, indeed, their functions vary throughout the day. The Good Room is Daddy's Café by day, but transforms into part of the pub in the evening, with the very tasty Coke Lane Pizza taking over of an evening. The Other Hand Bar is the smaller, ‘pubbier' side of The Circular, but, as at The Ivy House, a pub with similar multiple personalities in terms of layout, you can order beers from either side of the (circular) bar.

The main bar at The CircularAnd a lovely beer selection it is, too – there is generous support for local craft beer, with taps from Rascals, Hopfully, Trouble and Kinnegar on recently. The laid-back vibe is not dissimilar to sister bar Lucky’s, though there is more of a family-friendly atmosphere at The Circular, though perhaps it simply seems like that to someone like me who is never out after about 8 pm.  However, ’tis the season; could The Circular be a good spot to start or finish a ghostly tour of the surrounding area?  Would a nice pint keep Old Nick away?

It can’t hurt to try…and there are some interesting ghost stories to explore.

Where: 536-538 S Circular Rd, Rialto, Dublin 8, D08 CC02
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 68, 68A, 77A, 122, 151, Luas Red Line
Food: Breakfast & lunch by day, pizza by night
Sport: Rugby, football…all the big events
TVs: Throughout the complex
Music: Variable indie-ish playlist
Family-friendliness: Very family-friendly at the usual hours
Pub-crawl-ability: Low in the very immediate area, though you could make the effort to get to the Old Royal Oak, The Four Provinces, The Saint and Rascals HQ, or even head back to The Liberties for the Guinness Open Gate and more
Local sites of note: While not mere steps away, Kilmainham Gaol and Mt Jerome Cemetery are not terribly far
Haunted: As mentioned, you’ve got the bridge and the local area to go explore
Other notes: Many regular events, from pub quizzes to movie nights 
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Arthur’s Pub

Across the street from Arthur's PubArthur’s Pub – or, if you prefer, Arthur’s Blues and Jazz Club – sits on a prominent corner in the Liberties, and while it presents itself as ‘the nearest pub on the route to the Guinness Storehouse‘ and has name-checked Arthur Guinness, it has much more going for it than simply a handy location near one of Dublin’s most-visited landmarks. Although renovated as recently as 2022, the updates manage to feel very much bedded-in, yet with all the modern comforts.

And while there are a fair few spots nearby in The Liberties that cater to my craft beer preferences, Arthur’s does a great job of showcasing a range of independent Irish breweries, in addition to that extremely-fresh Guinness (even if it’s actually brewed a little bit further along than the Storehouse); there’s usually a good selection from Wicklow Wolf, Trouble, O’Hara’s, Rascals and more. In many ways, this is what I would expect for a pub that’s very much on the tourist trail – yes, there’s your expected Guinness, but you are also showing off other local producers, through both food and drink, and giving visitors a much fuller picture of what’s available here in Ireland. Oddly, this rarely happens, as many pubs that cater primarily to tourists carry only macro beers – so it’s great to see it. Arguably, the music venue upstairs does something similar – there’s a good mix of trad along with the jazz and blues in the name, which can be harder to find elsewhere in town.

The fireplace at Arthur's PubBut I love having an excuse to go to Arthur’s during the Libertine Market Crawl, a monthly craft and art market spread across three other neighbouring pubs, most recently Lucky’s, Dudley’s and Love Tempo. There’s always an eclectic but well-curated mix on offer, and Arthur’s seems to draw some of vendors on the spookier end of things, so yes, I am being catered to. And while the pub is by no means ancient by European standards – it was built c. 1850, and has been a pub since the 1860s (though not, back then, under its present Guinness-themed branding, of course) – its proximity to St Catherine’s Church, site of the execution of Robert Emmet in 1803, gives it a bit of a haunting air, enhanced by the large stone fireplace, covered in drippy candle wax at the far end of the pub, complete with a death mask of Emmet on the wall above.

For the tourist who may feel slightly discombobulated by a trip to the ultra-modern (and pricey) Gravity Bar at the Guinness Storehouse, just steps away, Arthur’s can help re-set the system; it feels like a very ‘authentic’ pub, albeit one with a more-interesting-than-usual set of offerings – something for everyone in the best way.

Where: 28 Thomas St, The Liberties, Dublin, D08 VF83
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 49, 54A, 77A, 123, 150, 151, G1, G2, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Elevated pub grub and small plates
Sport: Plenty of sporting options elsewhere in the neighbourhood
TVs: Not here
Music: Trad, jazz and general indie during the day, live jazz and blues upstairs
Family-friendliness: Plenty of kids about for lunch on weekend afternoons
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Dudley's is across the street, with Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, Swift, The Christchurch Inn, Tailors Hall, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also a bit further away
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: They lean *all the way in* with the Emmet death mask, but alas, he’s said to haunt The Brazen Head instead…
Other notes: Great vendors on the Libertine Market Crawl, always a kid- and dog-friendly event
Socials: Instagram, Facebook, YouTube

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Galway Hooker

The Galway Hooker exterior - the right-hand side of Heuston StationDublin does not, on the whole, have the kind of grand railway station pubs and bars that you might find in the UK or Germany, but it seems we are not alone in this. Indeed, most Dublin train stations are quick commuter stops – though a few of those do have some good local pubs – but of the two real inter-city stations, Connolly and Heuston, there is no comparison when it comes to pubs – Heuston is winning here. While there is a theoretical pub in Connolly, I don’t think I’ve ever been in when it has actually been open, though I am reliably informed by others that this is a ‘me’ problem and that it has been open for them. Heuston, however, has The Galway Hooker inside the station, and it has the distinction of being an early house as well. If you have an early-ish train and require a 7 am pint (or, for Sundays, 9 am), I’ll presume you’re not in the station for a work trip, but if you’re on holiday, have at it.

Station concourse entrance to The Galway HookerIt’s a bit of a funny spot, The Galway Hooker; the patio outside overlooks the Luas tracks, giving it more of a ‘commuter’ vs ‘real trip’ vibe, but it does afford a nice view of Heuston’s exterior, which is really rather nice by Irish train station standards; it can be a bit too easy to overlook when you’re in a hurry to catch a train. Inside, though, there are multiple options for people-watching, though it’s not as easy as it might be for trainspotting. The entrance from the station concourse only suggests a somewhat-unpromising buffet/carvery experience, but if you press on into the pub interior, a more impressive spectacle awaits.

The decorative Galway hooker above the bar at The Galway HookerThe colour scheme is dictated by the red-brown (Burnt Sienna?) sails of the model namesake boat variety above the bar. This particular example is also decorated with fairly lights, and the shade continues on the walls and up the stairs, complemented by dark-stained wood. All told, it’s a much warmer look and feel than either the patio (as expected) or the more takeaway-feeling entrance – in short, it has a much ‘pubbier’ feel about it. There are the usual seats at the bar, as well as tables throughout the space, and it’s quite a large one. There are the usual suspects on tap – Guinness, of course – but also Galway Hooker (the beer this time, not the boat – they’ve recently embarked on a series of seasonal cans) and Hope for the craft fans.

So, while Dublin may not have a great variety of railway pubs, there are certainly plenty of pubs near stations to make up for it – but it’s well worth stopping in to The Galway Hooker for a pint if you’re heading away for a long weekend.

Where: Heuston Station, St John’s Rd W, Saint James, Dublin 8
Access from the city centre: Luas Red Line, Buses 26, 52, 69, 123, 145, C1/C2/C3, 30-ish minute walk
Food: Usual pub grub
Sport: Biggest event of the day will be on
TVs: Above the bar
Music: Typically a more MOR sound
Family-friendliness: There are kids’ options, given the location
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – The trio of Nancy Hands, Ryan’s of Parkgate Street and P. Duggan’s are just across the river, Guinness Storehouse and the Open Gate a short walk down the road, Fidelity a bit further along on the other side of the Liffey again…
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Kilmainhaim Hospital, IMMA, Dr Steeven’s Hospital, Phoenix Park, St James’s Hospital
Haunted: Surely, all good train stations have a ghost story or two…
Other notes: Don’t expect normal pub hours for opening or closing – they close by 7 pm
Socials: Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bull & Castle

Gargoyle friend at The Bull & CastleBack in the day – you know, the late aughts to the mid-2010s – Ireland had very little going on from a craft beer perspective, especially compared to its neighbour across the Irish sea, or the larger one on the other side of the bigger body of water. And yet, a small-but-dedicated group of beer enthusiasts and homebrewers used to regularly meet and exchange notes at the subject of this week’s entry: The Bull & Castle.

While these days, the craft beer coterie tends to gather at The Underdog, there’s still plenty to enjoy at The Bull & Castle, and some amazing steak, to boot. Also: bonus ghost content! Well, dodgy ghost content, but surely, one expects nothing less. There is a literary connection, in any case, but it’s neither James Joyce nor Brendan Behan; it isn’t even Yeats!

The upstairs bar at The Bull & CastleBut back to the pub itself: The Bull & Castle is very much ‘sleek steakhouse with taxidermy and statuary’ downstairs, and if you’re simply looking for the bar, you need to head up the stairs. But before you do, it’s worth noting that the steak is top-notch; it’s part of the FX Buckley family, and if you are a meat-eater who hasn’t had their steak, well…you should probably get on that, whether at The Bull & Castle or one of their other locations around Dublin. Upstairs, there is also excellent food, but also a more pub-like atmosphere. There are a variety of local craft beer options: on my most recent visit, some Trouble, lots of O’Hara’s choices (also in bottles downstairs), including the house pale ale, The White Hag and others, plus a wider selection of ciders than you typically find in most places around town. It can feel a bit hidden, since you don't enter into the main bar right from the street as in so many other pubs, but that can add to the charm as well.

A goat friend downstairs at The Bull & CastleAnd, of course, there’s the aforementioned literary connection and ghost story. Poet James Clarence Mangan, whose bust can be seen watching over St Stephen’s Green, was born in a house on the site of The Bull & Castle, and legend has it that he makes his presence (absence?) known via cold spots and a melancholy atmosphere. Now, why he does this in the current building, which is not in any meaningful way the one in which he was born, merely on the same site, is a question for any passing mediums, but it’s a fun story. Regular visitors to my expanded universe will know we recently interviewed buildings archaeologist Dr James Wright on the Beer Ladies Podcast, and this connection certainly seems like one worth both revisiting for some mythbusting, as well as digging into for more concrete evidence – it’s entirely likely many other interesting stories could be unearthed as well.

While the street-level steakhouse feels more like an ‘occasion’ restaurant, don’t sleep on the bar upstairs; it’s a lovely spot with a lot of interesting history, both in recent events from a craft beer perspective, as well as of the more ‘shrouded in myth’ variety.

Where: 5-7 Lord Edward St, Dublin 2, D02 P634
Access from the city centre: Buses 27, 77A, 150, 151, 11-ish minute walk
Food: All the good steak, other smaller options in the upstairs bar
Sport: Big events
TVs: Some discreet televisions upstairs
Music: Jazzy downstairs, more chill vibes upstairs
Family-friendliness: All the FX Buckley steak places are great with families
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Lord Edward, The Christchurch Inn, Tailor’s Hall, The Beer Temple/The Oak are all more or less in one direction, with The Thomas House, Love Tempo, Dudley’s, Swift, Arthur's and other Liberties spots (including a certain Guinness Storehouse and/or Guinness Open Gate Brewery) in the other; The Brazen Head is also a short walk away
Local sites of note: Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen's Church, Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Dublin Castle
Haunted: Mangan likes the cold? Sure, why not?
Other notes: The side door going straight upstairs doesn’t always seem to be open, but when it is, it’s a welcome sight
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Strand House

Outside The Strand House: red frontageA mid-October 2024 update:
We returned* to The Strand House recently to give their recently-relaunched food menu a go (see, I said we’d get back to it!), and it turns out we have some good news to report on that front. The children’s menu is back and, I must admit, better than it was in the Galway Bay days. The Sunday roast options were all very tasty, but the real standouts for me were two rather unexpected starters – if you had told me in advance that I’d find something labeled as ‘crispy vegan wontons’ not only to my taste, but absolutely delicious, I’d never have believed it, but they were really lovely, as were the chorizo croquetas, but I would probably at least have tried those unbidden – so the nudge to sample the wontons was a wise one.

The one knock is still on the beer selection, with Ambush from Trouble being the only craft option, but I am happy to say that said Ambush continues to be fresh and well-kept; it’s clearly turning over with some regularity, which seems to be a good sign. It would be delightful if there were even just one more independent option, though at least Gaffney’s down the road does have Hope on tap. I will need to visit again soon, for science, to try the smashed bone marrow burger, which sounded intriguing…the pub does seem to be settling into its new identity, which is excellent news…and with Martin’s Off-License so close, a well-curated bottle or can list could be a nice extra feature…

Our original take from April, 2024:
After several weeks looking at Dublin city centre pubs, we’re heading back to the Northside, with a visit to The Strand House in Fairview. Locals will recall that this was most recently the BRÚ House Fairview, which was a BRÚ pub that became a Galway Bay pub retaining its BRÚ branding, but with the Galway Bay food menu and core beers. Clear? Great! However, just as The Beer Market (also a former Galway Bay/BRÚ joint) became The Christchurch Inn, so BRÚ House is now The Strand House.

Well, what’s changed?

The bar at The Strand House

First off, the frontage is red now, but the beer lineup is the biggest revision, and it’s quite a downgrade from my perspective. Whereas before there were the usual Galway Bay beers and some interesting guest taps, now it’s a standard Heineken/Diageo macro lineup, with a single independent option – the always-welcome Trouble Ambush. On the positive side, the Ambush was lovely and fresh, and hopefully it will remain that way, but it did mean that for me, there were not as many reasons to stop in and linger as there had been before. Indeed, while the interior looks welcoming, if not a huge change from the previous look and feel (the nice coat/bag hooks under the bar are certainly handy, and the darker colour scheme is pleasant), I’m not entirely sure it sets itself apart from Gaffney’s, just a few doors down now, whereas before, they were more distinctive – though the staff were all on top form, so also a big positive there.

Red leather seats at The Strand House

We’ll do a separate entry on Gaffney’s at some point, but in brief, it is a very comfortable Old Man Pub, also with a few craft taps (from Hope, in their case). And, so far, The Strand House feels quite similar, albeit with more children running around. One of the things that made BRÚ House such a useful neighbourhood pub was the children’s menu – and with Fairview Park right across the road, we would stop in not infrequently after a playground session, or even in the middle of trick-or-treating on Halloween. That’s not to suggest it was overrun with small children, by any means, but it was a very chill, family-friendly spot at reasonable hours. And while the food menu won’t kick in for a bit, there were still quite a few kids around, no doubt as the parents living nearby were presuming they’d be able to get them fed as under the previous management – time will tell.

I plan to visit again once the food is back – trad sessions are also on the way – but at the moment, it’s less of a destination than it used to be, at least for me. Perhaps more independent taps will be added in the future, but without them, it’s no longer my go-to post-haircut spot, despite being just around the corner from said establishment. That said, it’s nice to have more than one neighbourhood pub, so it’s more likely to fill that niche.

And if it turns out the food menu is the real draw, all to the good…fingers crossed!

Where: The Strand House, 12 Fairview, Clontarf, Dublin 3, D03 C998
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 27; DART to Clontarf Road
Food: Pub grub, Sunday roasts
Sport: Seems even more sport-friendly now: football, horse racing, GAA…
TVs: In the main bar area and in the back seating areas
Music: General indie background music, with some live events from time to time
Family-friendliness: Once again welcoming to the kids (at the usual hours)
Pub-crawl-ability: Low, unless you prefer a walk up to The Yacht Bar in Clontarf, though Gaffney's is almost next door
Local sites of note: Fairview Park, Croke Park, Clontarf Promenade
Haunted: Not that I've heard…
Other notes: Very handy for Martin's Off-License, one of Dublin's best; in theory, the Battle of Clontarf may have happened not far away, but that could also be LIES
Socials: Instagram

 

*Full disclosure – we were invited for a family meal, and the family did eat everything!

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen

Outside O'Neill's: sign & clockAs tourist season seems more or less nearly in full swing, we’re sticking with Dublin city centre this week and O’Neill’s Pub and Kitchen – a tourist-friendly but also authentic pub that caters to a range of tastes and preferences – and one that’s large enough to offer a different experience depending on where you are in the pub (and just how crowded it is on the day or evening).

The snug downstairs at O'Neill'sI recently had the unpleasant experience of stopping in a pub I’d never tried, and which shall remain nameless here, that was so aggressively diddley-eye that I had to flee after a single quick pint – the Clancy Brothers on a loop, too loud; a complete lack of non-Guinness options, the various tin signs and old farm equipment on the wall just that little bit too much like an Oirsih Pub of the sort you find anywhere in the world, and that doesn’t need to exist in the middle of Dublin. When I asked the bartender if there were any local craft options, she claimed not to know what that meant. Now, that in itself isn’t a dealbreaker, there are some excellent Guinness-only pubs that are well worth a visit – The Gravediggers and The Hut immediately come to mind – but add in the twee décor, the music (and I love good trad…just not the same four or five particular bits that get played endlessly to tourists) and the Americans wearing Peaky Blinders hats, and it was a big nope.

Barrels on the way up the stairsHappily, O’Neill’s is nothing like this, and visiting it not long after The Pub to Remain Nameless made its positive features stand out all the more. Yes, there are trad sessions – good ones are always welcome – but the usual background music is quiet enough to chat, not painfully loud. Yes, there are various old photos and signs, even some barrels as you head upstairs, but they seem like a more natural accumulation over the past 150-200 years, rather than having come from a warehouse as part of a kit. The ground floor is something of a warren (in the best possible way), with the bar serving several distinct spaces, including a pleasant snug by one of the doors. There is a good variety in terms of local craft options on tap (again, we’ll let the decorative hand pulls set high up on a shelf slide – there’s no cask here), but it’s always a good idea to have a backup choice selected; in my experience, the first choice is nearly always the one that just kicked. Happily, though, there are some good options (Lineman, Bullhouse, Whiplash and Trouble, to name a few independent Irish breweries showcased on my most recent visit, with Third Barrel upstairs), so it’s in no way a hardship.

Upstairs near Whiskey CornerAnd speaking of ‘upstairs,’ there’s a nice ‘Whiskey Corner,’ all red leather and dark wood, though of course you’re welcome to drink anything you’d like (and the whiskey selection is indeed a very good one). It can be quieter up here (not necessarily on big game days, of course), especially during the afternoon, and it can make a pleasant spot on your literary pub crawl, given its Seamus Heaney connections, among quite a few others. But again, there is a good variety of seating, with many little nooks and snugs, so it’s also a nice escape from Grafton Street shopping, just outside.

So, while my more usual MO is to hit up one of my locals before heading into town proper, my most recent visit to O’Neill’s was a good reminder that there are very nice spots right in Dublin city centre as well – they are not all tourist nightmares, even when you are absolutely in the middle of everything. Good times are possible!

Where: O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen, 2 Suffolk St, Dublin 2, D02 KX03
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: What I would term ‘tourist pub fare’ – Irish stew, soups, sandwiches, toasties and then burgers, etc.
Sport: Various screens for various sports – football, GAA, horse racing, etc
TVs: See ‘sport’
Music: Quiet enough to have a conversation; also trad events
Family-friendliness: Plenty of food options if it’s not late/too crowded
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Bowes, Cassidys, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon’s, The Oval, Porterhouse Temple Bar, Tapped and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Haunted: With its literary cred, a ghost would be a big plus, but no obvious stories
Local sites of note: Grafton Street, Trinity College, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Irish Whiskey Museum…you are central
Other notes: Not to be confused with O’Neill’s Victorian Pub & Townhouse on Pearse Street
Socials: Nothing updated for quite a few years

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Fagan’s

Fagan's - mosaic tile floor outsideBill Clinton wuz here. And you’re not likely to forget it, as he seems to be on every wall in Fagan’s, somewhere.

Of course, to Dubliners, Fagan’s is better known for its Bertie Ahern connections, but I think it’s the Clintoniana I’ve always found a little bit off-putting; in short, for us Gen X folk of all political and national stripes, that aspect of the décor can seem a bit, well, Boomer. However, it’s not every pub in Dublin that’s had national and world leaders enjoy a Guinness (or other beverage) there, so it’s entirely understandable that there would be more than a few clippings on the wall.

Bill & Bertie with a pint of O'Hara's

And, to be fair, it’s not truly throughout the entire pub, as Fagan’s is enormous. The front bar is the original section from 1907, and the (presumably purposefully-designed) barn-like extension to the rear was added much more recently, though care has been taken to give the back bar an air of Victorian respectability, with dark wood and plenty of glass; there’s also the requisite snug, just to the left of that bar. There are also fake hand pumps, which is moderately enraging for a cask nerd, like me, but the less said about that the better. If you carry on even further to the back of the pub, there’s a carvery, and it always seems to be popular. I confess I’ve never quite grasped the appeal of a carvery – I am probably scarred from living in the UK in the 1990s, where that meant (perhaps still means?) something along the lines of a Toby Carvery or Brewers Fayre, with steam tables galore, but I do recognize that it’s A Different Thing here in Ireland…I’m just not sure entirely how. In any event, I am clearly not the best person to judge, but it very much has its fans.

Front bar at Fagan's

I have had quite good a la carte food options here for family meals in the past, but it’s never become one of our go-tos, despite it being a short walk away; while there is a craft beer tap (O’Hara’s Pale Ale on my most recent visit), it doesn’t have the variety of beers you find just up the road at The Cat & Cage (or even Juno, in the other direction), and that’s probably a big reason we simply don’t go there as often – yes, the Guinness is good, though when I’m in a plain-old-Guinness mood, I’m more likely to head to The Gravediggers or The Hut. I’m not even certain I can articulate why that’s the case…it’s simply a pattern I seem to have fallen into.

Back bar at Fagan's

However, in the interests of science, I called in to Fagan’s after a lengthy absence the other day, and I was pleasantly surprised to find it more welcoming than I had remembered it in the past, and that despite its somewhat cavernous feeling toward the back of the pub, there were some cosy nooks and smaller spots to escape to.

I may never truly understand the appeal of a carvery, but I might just stop in more often in the future for a quiet pint (hopefully without accidentally ending up in government).

Where: Fagan’s, 146 Drumcondra Rd Lower, Drumcondra, Dublin 9, D09 YR83
Access from the city centre: Buses 1, 13, 16, 44
Food: Pub grub, pastas, stir-fries, carvery
Sport: All the usual football, rugby, GAA, etc
TVs: Quite a few for the sport, all over
Music: Can be a bit MOR, but they also played ‘Hey, Big Spender’ on my last visit – was it a sign?
Family-friendliness: There are chicken goujons, etc., for the pickier kid, as well as more ‘mature’ kids’ options
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium; Kennedy’s is next door, but you’d be better off walking up to The Ivy House and The Cat & Cage, or stroll across Griffith Park to The Tolka House, The Gravediggers or The Botanic; Juno is not too far to walk, either…at least, by my reckoning
Haunted: Entirely possible that the BVM statue in the park across the street moves
Local sites of note: Croke Park, National Botanic Garden, Glasnevin Cemetery
Other notes: Can be exceptionally crowded on match days at Croke Park, as are all local pubs
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Dudley’s

Outside Dudley's at nightWe’re back in the ‘my sort of Dublin pub’ category: one with great craft beer – and a good variety, not simply one or two taps – there are 28 in total at Dudley’s, which is one of my favourite spots in The Liberties. But it’s not just the beer and the deep, rich colours that make this one of my go-to places when I’m in this part of town; it’s that it’s always welcoming and feels like a part of the fabric of the community – a pub for many different occasions. As with some of the other locations that make up the always-excellent Libertine Market Crawl each month, it’s a place that caters to many different demographics; I’ve seen groups (and solo drinkers) of all different ages, looks and preferences, whether that’s those with a taste for the Guinness that was brewed down the street or an Irish craft beer from the likes of Lough Gill, Whiplash, Hopkins & Hopkins or Trouble; the lineup is always changing, as are the styles.

Mac & cheese and a pint at Dudley'sDudley’s opened in 2021 when the previous pub on the spot closed during the Covid shutdown. Its name now commemorates Thomas ‘Bang Bang’ Dudley, a renowned Dublin character who roamed the Liberties and surrounds, using a key to ‘shoot’ buses and passers-by; the key is also remembered in the pub’s signage; Phibsborough’s Bang Bang Café is another nod to the man himself. Inside, the renovation is still looking fresh, with deep colours and a variety of seating options – two sides to the bar, with bar stools and tables around both, and cozy mezzanine and downstairs areas as well. I’m also a fan of the food; I’m always baffled that we don’t have more mac & cheese in Irish pubs, since we have The Best Cheese here, but Dudley’s is one of the few places in Dublin that provides.

T-shirts at Dudley's - yes, you can buy one, but no, you don't have toIn short, even though it’s not one of my locals, Dudley’s is always a must-visit when I’m over in that direction; it’s great for a chilled-out solo pint, a pause on the Libertine Market Crawl with friends or family, and a fantastic spot to kick off a little Liberties pub crawl with friends.

But with such a nice variety of beer, food and ambiance, sometimes the crawl ends where it begins…there’s no compelling reason to leave!

Where: Dudley’s, 48 Thomas St, The Liberties, Dublin, D08 Y44A
Access from the city centre: Buses 27, 77A, 123, 150, 151, G1, G2, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Slightly fancier pub food, Sunday roast, mac & cheese!
Sport: Football & rugby on for bigger games
TVs: Screens for larger sporting events
Music: Live sessions on Sundays at 7, great jazz & indie faves the rest of the time
Family-friendliness: I’ve found the mac & cheese a great success in the afternoons
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, Swift, Arthur’s, The Christchurch Inn, Tailors Hall, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, The Beer Temple/The Oak; The Brazen Head is also a short walk away
Haunted: No obvious tales circulating, but this part of town has seen some things…
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Other notes: Also ideal for pre- or post-gig pints & food at Vicar Street
Socials: Instagram