Dublin does not, on the whole, have the kind of grand railway station pubs and bars that you might find in the UK or Germany, but it seems we are not alone in this. Indeed, most Dublin train stations are quick commuter stops – though a few of those do have some good local pubs – but of the two real inter-city stations, Connolly and Heuston, there is no comparison when it comes to pubs – Heuston is winning here. While there is a theoretical pub in Connolly, I don’t think I’ve ever been in when it has actually been open, though I am reliably informed by others that this is a ‘me’ problem and that it has been open for them. Heuston, however, has The Galway Hooker inside the station, and it has the distinction of being an early house as well. If you have an early-ish train and require a 7 am pint (or, for Sundays, 9 am), I’ll presume you’re not in the station for a work trip, but if you’re on holiday, have at it.
It’s a bit of a funny spot, The Galway Hooker; the patio outside overlooks the Luas tracks, giving it more of a ‘commuter’ vs ‘real trip’ vibe, but it does afford a nice view of Heuston’s exterior, which is really rather nice by Irish train station standards; it can be a bit too easy to overlook when you’re in a hurry to catch a train. Inside, though, there are multiple options for people-watching, though it’s not as easy as it might be for trainspotting. The entrance from the station concourse only suggests a somewhat-unpromising buffet/carvery experience, but if you press on into the pub interior, a more impressive spectacle awaits.
The colour scheme is dictated by the red-brown (Burnt Sienna?) sails of the model namesake boat variety above the bar. This particular example is also decorated with fairly lights, and the shade continues on the walls and up the stairs, complemented by dark-stained wood. All told, it’s a much warmer look and feel than either the patio (as expected) or the more takeaway-feeling entrance – in short, it has a much ‘pubbier’ feel about it. There are the usual seats at the bar, as well as tables throughout the space, and it’s quite a large one. There are the usual suspects on tap – Guinness, of course – but also Galway Hooker (the beer this time, not the boat – they’ve recently embarked on a series of seasonal cans) and Hope for the craft fans.
So, while Dublin may not have a great variety of railway pubs, there are certainly plenty of pubs near stations to make up for it – but it’s well worth stopping in to The Galway Hooker for a pint if you’re heading away for a long weekend.
Where: Heuston Station, St John’s Rd W, Saint James, Dublin 8
Access from the city centre: Luas Red Line, Buses 26, 52, 69, 123, 145, C1/C2/C3, 30-ish minute walk
Food: Usual pub grub
Sport: Biggest event of the day will be on
TVs: Above the bar
Music: Typically a more MOR sound
Family-friendliness: There are kids’ options, given the location
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – The trio of Nancy Hands, Ryan’s of Parkgate Street and P. Duggan’s are just across the river, Guinness Storehouse and the Open Gate a short walk down the road, Fidelity a bit further along on the other side of the Liffey again…
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Kilmainhaim Hospital, IMMA, Dr Steeven’s Hospital, Phoenix Park, St James’s Hospital
Haunted: Surely, all good train stations have a ghost story or two…
Other notes: Don’t expect normal pub hours for opening or closing – they close by 7 pm
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